My latest Trex 550e build question

[alistair.howie]

Hello there. I'm progressing with my very first build and was last night trying to screw ball links onto each end of the relevant linkage rods. I manged to screw them on by hand to about 80% of the required distance apart, but then they just became too tight to turn on the threads anymore without seriously hurting my fingers!

I presume this is completely normal, so what's the best way to get them on? Do I just hold the links in pliers, or is there a particular knack to ensure the links don't get damaged e.g. hold them in something like folded over tissue/kitchen towel?

Also, I couldn't see any mention of it in the manual (although I might have missed it), but should I be using the supplied Align grease on the main shaft?

Many thanks.

[Planehazza]

I had this problem on the FBL links on my vision 90. They were M3 size which made it even worse - my god it was painful. I used a Tshirt to grip the links. Careful you don't stretch or twist them.

You can get these however:

http://www.fast-lad.co.uk/store/ball...014-p-504.html

However they haven't had them in stock for months now, so I'm wondering if they'll get them back in or not.

I'd save the grease for the one way bearing and the head shaft, and use triflow or a similar oil on the main shaft, swash and other bearings etc.

[Tim Procter]

You need a Ball link driver mate.

The best 99p you will ever spend.

Fastlads out of stock but I'm sure Revolution or Midland will have stock.

[Tim Procter]

With the rod links, I put a little bar (like tool hex's) through each hole for leverage

Eddie.

Sorry mate but that's the worst advise you could give anyone.

Not only will it distort the machined ball link but its a sure way for a quick crash due to this proceedure.

[alistair.howie]

Thanks for the advice - ball link drivers it is then! I guess this is probably one of those areas where everyone learns the hard way, right? I can just imagine the smiles across the forum as people read my post. Typing this message this morning is still bloody sore sore on my fingers, which have yet to recover.

[jamiem]

My century hex drivers (anodised handles, I'll find a link later but got them from Elite models) have built in ball link drivers in the handles. Works a treat

Absolutely do not put anything through the link to wind it on, it's a sure fire way to break/distort the link!

[Eckchaz]

Eddie.

Sorry mate but that's the worst advise you could give anyone.

Not only will it distort the machined ball link but its a sure way for a quick crash due to this proceedure.

Really? I'll remove my first post then but I've never had any probs?.. the rod is the same size as the hole and the ball link pliers holds the link like a ball link driver.. I've not had any twisting/distortion/failures on any of my heli's

[alex]

Really? I'll remove my first post then but I've never had any probs?.. the rod is the same size as the hole and the ball link pliers holds the link like a ball link driver.. I've not had any twisting/distortion/failures on any of my heli's

I stand corrected too as this was my way of doing ball links too- I can see the point if you use a small diameter rod, but if it is pretty much the same size the forces are being spread out and as long as you go gentle there is no marking at all- but it does make more sense to use a ball link driver. I might make one.

[cupracing]

I do mine this way too, never had a problem with distortion

[Nick B]

I just go through the pain of using my fingers =D

[mattie-lodge]

I agree with Tim. The little drivers you can buy are excellent. Best buy IMO

[PeteStewardson]

I got the JR ball link driver ( pricey but hey what the hell ) and use my ball link pliers to hold the other end.

[Smudgyboy]

I use a ball link driver, it has a hex shape at the end just past the tabs for gripping with your fingers. The hex bit fits right into my small electric screwdriver, now I have an electric ball link driver!

Put rod in vice line up ball joint and waz it on, simple and quick.

Remember to wrap the rod in cloth to stop marking it.

Phil

[alistair.howie]

So I bought the ball link wrench from Midland Helicopters for a few quid ... bloody marvellous! Doesn't fit the larger links attaching to the main blade grips, but they are large enough to turn by hand.

My next question (sorry) is about the stiffness of the links on the balls on the main blade grips. I've seen the Finless Ball Links 101 video, and on the basis of what I saw there, the links are too tight. With the links not yet connected to the swash but snapped on to the main blade grip balls, the rods will say positioned at whatever angle I put them. They won't fall or move when tapping the rotor head or making other such movements. They of course move without difficulty when I move them with my hand, but they do seem on the firmer side of what Finless suggests.

My trex is FBL, the links are on the right way around and obviously the heli hasn't been flown yet. Should I be using a reamer to resize, or is this slight stiffness 1) to be expected on a new build, or 2) beneficial for a FBL heli, or is the situation no different to flybar, 3) likely to disappear after a few flights?

I've never reszied a link before, and I guess it's likely I'll probably mess up when trying it for the first time, so I'm hoping someone will tell me not to worry about my current set-up. I've read about using pliers to give the links a quick squeeze, although I realise many suggest not doing that. And on a related issue, I don't think my reamer is the right size for these large links on the main blade grips. I've got this one Ball Link Sizing Tool - Tools - Align-Trex.co.uk, Specialist supplier of kits and spares for R/C Align Helicopters I played about with the screw but couldn't seem to get it large enough for it to be doing anything, although admittedly I don't really know what I'm doing! I haven;t measured the link diameter yet so not sure if I have the right size of tool.

Again, all thoughts/advice gratefully received. Thanks

[Nick B]

I wouldnt worry to much,its an align,just break it gently for a pack or two and see what its like then...reckon it will be fine