Build question(s)

[alistair.howie]

Hello

I'm just about to embark on the build of my very first RC helicopter - a TREX 550e FBL. I've downloaded two separate sets of build videos from the internet and some am about ready to give it a go, but have a few (probably obvious) questions about the build. ...

1) Most of the build seems to be done using the supplied T43 threadlock. In simple language please, what's the difference between the T43, R48 and self-furnished CA glue? Is it speed of curing? Are all CA glues alike, or should I buy a particular type? I presume the supplied T43 and R48 are adequate for the job, or should I be using some others? Which?

2) Are the Align made hex drivers of decent quality, or do I need to pay more for some better quality ones? Please suggest any suitable alternatives if you think it's necessary.

3) The instructions say that I need 3mm and 1.8mm diameter Phillips screwdrivers, but I'm struggling to see find such sizes. Instead, drivers seem to be described using a size code 00, 000 etc. What code size should I look to buy? Please suggest any suitable brands if you can.

4) Where the factory has preassembled parts, I know I need to take them apart and re-do with glue. If I can't easily take them apart, do I presume they have been glued in and are ok as is, or will my attempts at taking them apart mean that I have loosened the glue? If they are glued and need to come apart, does this mean I need to buy a soldering iron to do the heating?

5) I guess I'll need a soldering iron anyway once I get my head around the various types of connectors on the BEC, ESC, motor, battery? If so, what should I look for? Specifically, what power rating? If you can suggest a particular model, I'd appreciate it.

6) Will I need to purchase a blade balancing tool, or will my stock 520 carbon blades be fine out of the box?

Probably a bit scary that I've actually taken the plunge in buying this helicopter and don't know these answers, but I guess I've got to start somewhere!

Thanks in advance for the comments/advice.

[moonmanflyer]

Hi Alistair
I will try to be as easy on you as i can
1) Thread lock is for metal screws in metal fixings i.e. into a mount for instance, and you may well want to take apart, i.e. t43, r48 is a stud look so gives a more perminant joint, i.e. bearing into a bearing block.
CA glue is a modling super glue, what ever you do don't use on metal to metal screws, you will never get them apart.
2) Align hex drivers are fine
3) Just get a modling set of screw drivers, i have a thunder tiger set that does me very well.
4) Pre assembled parts like the tail hubs and rotor head need to be stripped and reassembled one to greease the thrust bearings and also make sure it is all threadlocked properly.
5) Deans connectors are perfectly fine or use 4mm gold bullets.
6) Most modern blades are well ballanced, so should be fine with a tweek on the link rods to finish tracking on ionitial test flights

[Pitman]

Just to add to James very good reply, here are the metric equivalent to the phillip screwdriver sizes you mentioned;
#000 1.4mm
#00 2.0mm
#0 2.5mm
#1 3.2mm
As far as allen drivers are concerned, just be careful, Align hardware is not known for being the best, and therefore it is worthwhile ensuring that your allen drivers fit the screw heads really well. In my opinion, the best drivers you can get are Hudy - available here: TeamXRay co uk, Hudy tools Hudy tools

[alistair.howie]

Thank you, gentlemen.

So the T43 is like blue locktite ... relatively easily undone, and the R48 more like red locktite i.e. much harder to undo?

Also, when i was talking about the various connectors, I was asking about whether I need a soldering iron, and if so, what sort of wattage. I think I can see that the answer is clearly a yes, I need to learn soldering! If you can suggest a brand, I'd appreciate it!

Re the metric size equivalent of the Phillips sizes, I'm probably being thick here, but it seems that it's not possible to actually buy 3mm and 1.8mm Phillips drivers per the Align instructions. I guess I have to buy the closest size that is smaller the required diameters ... so #000 (1.4mm) and #0 (2.5mm). Is that right?

I've heard of Hudy's great products, but am just trying to stem the cash haemorrhage

[Pitman]

Thank you, gentlemen.

So the T43 is like blue locktite ... relatively easily undone, and the R48 more like red locktite i.e. much harder to undo?

Also, when i was talking about the various connectors, I was asking about whether I need a soldering iron, and if so, what sort of wattage. I think I can see that the answer is clearly a yes, I need to learn soldering! If you can suggest a brand, I'd appreciate it!

Re the metric size equivalent of the Phillips sizes, I'm probably being thick here, but it seems that it's not possible to actually buy 3mm and 1.8mm Phillips drivers per the Align instructions. I guess I have to buy the closest size that is smaller the required diameters ... so #000 (1.4mm) and #0 (2.5mm). Is that right?

I've heard of Hudy's great products, but am just trying to stem the cash haemorrhage

Yes re the locktite.

Yes re learning to solder. Have a look at Maplin for an iron, ideally you will need a 60 watt soldering iron for all but the heaviest wire where 100Watts will make life easier. Do yourself a favour, and get 60/40 lead tin solder (20 gauge is good) - the new leadfree stuff is rubbish. Just make sure you dont use acid core solder!

Yes re the size phillip driver, they do have a slight tolerance, being a tapered point!

[Bart101]

Also have a look at the Swiss tools from FL

Fast Lad Performance

[Pitman]

Suggestion for soldering iron:
50W Solder Station : Temperature Controlled Irons Solder Stations : Maplin
and / or
Soldering Irons - digital and analogue soldering equipment
and for proper solder:
Rapid Electronics - Tools, Fasteners & Production Equipment > Soldering Equipment > Solder & Fluxes

[shades]

Don't over tighten the screws into the plastic tail boom box mounts.
Also make sure to route any cables outside of the TT housing. This will make it easier to replace the front TT gear when you have stripped it. It will happen !!! It has to me a couple of times after a heavy tail landing.

Enjoy though it's a great heli. ;-)

[Ross Northcott]

Also have a look at the Swiss tools from FL

Fast Lad Performance

Never noticed these on fl before, must be a good bit of kit at those prices, if you can afford them i guess they will be the only set you should ever need to buy thats for sure.

[alistair.howie]

Thanks for all the advice, everyone - much appreciated.

I've thought again about my comment about the Philips screwdrivers ...

I guess I have to buy the closest size that is smaller the required diameters ... so #000 (1.4mm) and #0 (2.5mm). Is that right?

As the heads are, of course, tapered, I suppose I should be buying one size too large - so the #1 (3.2mm) for the 3mm screws, and the #00 (2mm) for use on the 1.8mm screws?


Re learning to solder, I guess the best resource is YouTube or similar?

[Pitman]

Thanks for all the advice, everyone - much appreciated.

I've thought again about my comment about the Philips screwdrivers ...

I guess I have to buy the closest size that is smaller the required diameters ... so #000 (1.4mm) and #0 (2.5mm). Is that right?

As the heads are, of course, tapered, I suppose I should be buying one size too large - so the #1 (3.2mm) for the 3mm screws, and the #00 (2mm) for use on the 1.8mm screws?


Re learning to solder, I guess the best resource is YouTube or similar?

Hi Alistair,

Have a look here re what size Phillips screwdriver to use - there is a useful table if you scroll down the page a bit:
Fast Lad Performance


As far as learning to solder is concerned, I guess you could find some good videos on Youtube, although is is not really difficult if you follow the basics:

1. Remember cleanliness is king!
2. Ensure that your soldering iron is hot enough
3. Use 60/40 rosin cored solder as per the link above - dont waste your time with lead free solder - it is rubbish! (Just dont eat the solder!!)
4. Clean the tip of your iron, and 'tin' it, by applying a coating of solder to it.
5. Tin both surfaces to be soldered, by heating the surface up with your iron, and apply the end of the solder to the surface, whilst the iron tip is on the surface to be soldered.
6. Once both surfaces are coated with a thin layer of solder (which is what tinning is), put them together, heat up both surfaces where they touch with your iron, and feed a small amount of solder wire to the joint. The solder should flow smoothly between them, joining the surfaces together.
7. Remove the iron, whilst ensuring the two surfaces dont move before the solder had hardened.
8. The sign of a good solder joint is that it should be shiney, with a smooth concave joint between the two surfaces.
9. Just practice first with some spare wire, and some strips cut from a tin (not aluminium!) can.
10. Remember when soldering, for example, batteries on to Deans plugs, to put the heat shrink tube onto the wire first!

Hope this helps!

Dave

[Bart101]

If you have a look on Helifreak, Finless has some good vid's on soldering! if you can't find them, I'll get you the links when I get home from work


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Pitman]

Here is a video on how to solder (or sodder as our American cousins like to call it!)

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BLfXXRfRIzY"]YouTube - How to Do It: Basic Soldering[/ame]

and an Australian one:

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0cl5QI4pqKc&feature=related[/ame]

[alistair.howie]

Man, I love this forum! Talk about real time answers to my questions! Thanks all very much indeed.

[Pitman]

If you have a look on Helifreak, Finless has some good vid's on soldering! if you can't find them, I'll get you the links when I get home from work


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here are the links to the videos that Shaun is referring to:

http://video.helifreak.com/?subpath=...bullets101.wmv

http://video.helifreak.com/?subpath=...g_deans101.wmv