dosile t-rex NEEDS livening up!!!!!

[heliward0]

my t-rex is very dosile and slow NEEDS to be made more livley anyone help????????

[Edders]

do you have the metal weights on the flybar ?
if so move them closer to the center

Edders

[3dbasher]

nar take em off

[ChrisB]

yeh ditch em

[heliward0]

yea have moved them in to centre and this didnt make much difference (will remove them fully ) my t-rex seems to need a lot of stick input to respond i have replaced all the ball links and fully upgraded the head it hovers nice but when it starts to drift i have to put a lot of stick in to correct it and then it over componsates and then i have to put more stick other way (YOU GET THE IDEA) and no i DONT think its ME.. NEED it be more responsive hence the post any ideas?????

[heliward0]

srvos are hitec hs50 all round,,(i dont think these are the trouble do you?)

[stumpy]

how much cyclic throw did u set up?

are all the ball links free moving, ie; loose but no slop, tight links will make it slow to respond.

[Edders]

increae your head speed and if when you move the airelon / elevator forwards backwards side to side you not binding increase the travel in your transmitter


Edders

[heliward0]

how much cyclic throw did u set up?

are all the ball links free moving, ie; loose but no slop, tight links will make it slow to respond.

heli was set up at my local modelshop(PENN MODELS ) AND THEY CHARGED ME £20 TO SET UP WHEN I WENT TO A MEETING(RAN BY THE GUY WHO SET IT UP) HE SAID THAT IT WASNT SET-UP PROPERLY!!!! SO NEVER WENT AGAIN!!! ( i have messed around with it myself and got it hovering nicley) the transmiter is set-up for beginer i think? ball links do move freely as it recomends on my set-up dvd, i am useing a hitec optic6 handset..

[stumpy]

hi heliwardo

is there a club local to you?

as thats a good place to start for advice\ help.

[heliward0]

hi heliwardo

is there a club local to you?

as thats a good place to start for advice\ help.

SEE ABOVE POST!!!!!!!!I ENT GOING THERE AGAIN,, WILL HAVE TO CARRY ON LEARNING AND TEACHING MY SELF (WITH YOU GUYS HELPING ME) i guss thats why its taken me so long to learn but hey every day is a school day....

[Butuz]

HS50 servos on cyclic? Very weak. Suitable for small plastic tat heli's like Piccolo, Hummingbird, but not for a bigger Trex.

Sureley this is the first port of call with regard to crap cyclic response?

Just a guess, i dont have a trex so feel free to pinch for the salt!

Butuz

[Smoothound]

55's will just about do a Trex but 56's or 65's are better. If you really are using 50's it could be part of the problem but also watch them like a hawk as they do have a hbit of popping open as the cases are not screwed togaether

How much Aileron/Elevator do you have set in your Swash Mix settings?

[3dx]

Yeah,would'nt use anything less that HS65-Otherwise like smoothbound say's-check your swash mix settings and also check if your have RATES enabled-if the shop set it up with a beginner in mind,That would explain a lot-the other setting would EXPO- ON Futaba its Negative values- ON JR/SPEKTRUM its Positive- the effect being small stick movements/massive control .. large stick
movements/small control...
3dx.

[moyesboy]

If you are having to constantly over correct this is sticky linkages. when you centre the stick it should stop rolling/pitching and stay at the angle you put it (approx).

The HS50 is one ot use on the tail rather than the cyclic. HS55 is minium on cyclic. The cyclic should be a 9g servo. Better 56 or 65MG.
The servo thing is more that the little servos will be damaged easily in a crash rather than it giving you trouble in the hover. If you start doing 3D with the HS50s then you could find the serevo gears going in the air. wrapping the servos in tape will help stop the case popping apart.

On the Optic 6 the default swash settings are conservative. In the swash setting there is a percentage for airleron, elevartor and collective.

When checking out the settings unplug the esc and use an Rx battery. Then the motor can't start on the kitchen table (done that, wasn't nice!).
You want to set the collective so you get 8-9 degrees positive and negative (10 max).
Then on the cyclic you want to set it so you have as much as you can get before the flybar cage links hit the underside of the blade grips. this is usually the first bind. So put full elevator and aileron on and rotate the head making sure it goes round without locking up (through the ful range of collective too). you can actually have a slight bind with the stick in the corner, but not with the stick full left right or up down. You don't usually put the stick in the corner when flying.
It is possible for clashes to happen elsewhere so do make sure the head rotates freely.

Now look at the expo setting on elev and aileron and go for about 20% (-20%? ) to make it less sensitive in the midlle of the stick. Maybe your model shop overdid the expo?

The head speed should be 2000 minimum better 2400 rpm. This makes it both more stable and more responsive.

With the local club, don't burn your boats, there must be other guys there other than the guy you have fallen out with.

As well as here, have a mooch about at ashley davis' site www.trextuning.co.uk