Governor?

[simon1]

Have been doing more researching than flying lately due to the crappy weather And wondered whether a governor would help me much as a newbie?
In my ignorance I am not really sure how they work and exactly what they do, only that they will hold engine rpm at a predetermined point. Now do you need to set a throttle curve aswell? do governors have begginer settings? I can set a pitch curve fine, throttle curve different all together, and havn't a clue bout cylic-throttle mixing?!!! Governor would help maybe?

Do they work on raptor 30s?

Would it be worth it me purchasing one?

cheers
simon

[Made2Fade]

Are you doing aerobatics or any sort of 3d yet? If not then you dont need one yet

[coptermanic]

Simon, have recently installed a governor on my 600. I went for the Aerospire MultiGov Pro. It can be bought complete with a plug-in controller.
It is easy to set up - there are Finless Bob vids on helifreak - and does a very good job. Basically, it will control your blade rpm and your engine operating temperature [through a mixing servo which does NOT require an extra channel]
The advantages:
engine protection as it looks after the top temp and rpm,
fixed rpm makes the heli more predictable to fly as you are flying collective,
you can concentrate more on flying the beast, instead of having some of your capacity smoke watching and engine monitoring,
my flying times have increased as it will use the correct mixture to achieve the temp.

I would thoroughly recommend one. If you have a 7th ch, then you may set up 3 different combos of rpm and operating temp to suit different forms of flying.
Don't hesitate to PM me if you wish further gen.

Mike

[simon1]

Are you doing aerobatics or any sort of 3d yet? If not then you dont need one yet

erm no just hovering about trying to get nose in sorted, just thought it might make things slightly easier, engine tuning, getting throttle curves sorted, etc, hard enough just flying the thing

[coptermanic]

It will make things easier, even if you are, like me, not doing 3D.

[simon1]

Simon, have recently installed a governor on my 600. I went for the Aerospire MultiGov Pro. It can be bought complete with a plug-in controller.
It is easy to set up - there are Finless Bob vids on helifreak - and does a very good job. Basically, it will control your blade rpm and your engine operating temperature [through a mixing servo which does NOT require an extra channel]
The advantages:
engine protection as it looks after the top temp and rpm,
fixed rpm makes the heli more predictable to fly as you are flying collective,
you can concentrate more on flying the beast, instead of having some of your capacity smoke watching and engine monitoring,
my flying times have increased as it will use the correct mixture to achieve the temp.

I would thoroughly recommend one. If you have a 7th ch, then you may set up 3 different combos of rpm and operating temp to suit different forms of flying.
Don't hesitate to PM me if you wish further gen.

Mike

Thanks mike, sound's like you are a fan of them, its sort of one less thing to worry about, I have a futaba ff9 so i imagine it would be fine setup on that? May have to look into it further then.

thanks again
simon

[coptermanic]

Well I do still worry about the donkey, but not as much!!! LOL Some added protection never hurts. Was going to suggest the new AR7000R rx, but you are on Futaba.

[Steve]

You don't 'need' a governor.

You might 'want' a governor, or even a limiter.

At a learner's stage, you should concentrate on getting the pitch-throttle mixes right - set your pitch curves then tailor the throttle curves to suit. As for cyclic-throttle mixes then these are usually quite easy with most modern radios and all you have to do for starters is set the throttle to increase by 20% when the cyclic stick is pushed to full in all 4 directions from the middle - i.e. left aileron gives +20% throttle, right aileron gives +20% throttle, down elevator gives +20% throttle and up elevator gives +20% throttle. 20% is a good starting point on cyclic to throttle mixing.

You can then add rudder to throttle mixing which is a bit different, only because the tail blades are always holding in a bit of right rudder to hold the hover position due to the torque of the main blades. With rudder-throttle mixing you need to start at +6% to the right and -6% to the left, unlike cyclic-throttle mixing which is +20% in all directions. This is because one way the tail is working against the main blades, and the other it is working with the main blades. You can check the values by doing stationary continuous pirouettes in each direction and listening to whether the engine increases or decreases, and adjusting as necessary.

Once you've learnt all about throttle curves and have moved on to more serious flying, then yeah, go ahead - governors and limiters are great.

[coptermanic]

I agree wholly with what Steve has said.

My point is that I am not really that good with electronics and all that mixing stuff in the TX. Being a simple chap i like what a gov does for me. Sure, I don't really need one, but it is a bit of protection and at least I understand what it is doing.

[J-S-Q]

I recently started using an Align governor on my 600N and was pleasantly surprised that I could notice the difference -much more consistent power. I'm at the sport flying stage, flips, loops, stall turns etc. Can't really see much benefit if you aren't doing some form of aerobatics but if you want to use one then why not?

[simon1]

[trillian]

I never thought about setting up throttle / cyclic mixes, 'just never occured to me. 'Sounds like a logical thing if you don't have a governor.

As for cyclic-throttle mixes then these are usually quite easy with most modern radios and all you have to do for starters is set the throttle to increase by 20% when the cyclic stick is pushed to full in all 4 directions from the middle - i.e. left aileron gives +20% throttle, right aileron gives +20% throttle, down elevator gives +20% throttle and up elevator gives +20% throttle. 20% is a good starting point on cyclic to throttle mixing.

You can then add rudder to throttle mixing which is a bit different, only because the tail blades are always holding in a bit of right rudder to hold the hover position due to the torque of the main blades. With rudder-throttle mixing you need to start at +6% to the right and -6% to the left, unlike cyclic-throttle mixing which is +20% in all directions.

[Steve]

Well you only have one engine, one power source. So every time you increase cyclic, collective or yaw (see above post) demand then you generally increase the load on the rotor head and engine.

[trillian]

Well you only have one engine, one power source. So every time you increase cyclic, collective or yaw (see above post) demand then you generally increase the load on the rotor head and engine.

Yeah, I am just used to riding the throttle stick up a bit in the turns etc. but obviously the stick is generally adding collective as well.

[marktigere1]

Honestly

Anyone would think Steve knew what he was talking about