Stripping down an IC Engine

[dam74]

Would somebody either provide links or help explain how to strip down an IC Engine. To be more specific it's an SC .32 engine from my Century Hawk Pro that I'm attempting to get back into a state to fly. I'm pretty sure the engine is knackered but I'm going to attempt to strip it down and clean it up and rebuild. Then perform a bench test to see how it runs.

I've managed to remove the clutch bell and lining by sawing them off as they were damaged. This revealed the clutch shoe which by inserting some longnose pliers onto the conrod and beyond into the backend of the combustion chamber I managed to lock the crankshaft to twist off the clutch shoe with some multigrips. I've been soaking it heavily in WD40 and lubricant because I want to try and remove the piston sleeve but seems almost impossible to remove using the cable tie method.

So at the moment I've got an engine with the front bearings exposed which I'd like to remove and also remove the crankshaft. At the moment I'm not certain how I remove the conrod off the crankshaft or from the piston. I also cannot get the piston sleeve out of the casing either.
Some help/advice would be appreciated

[bigbas]

hi to remove the liner use a heat gun and warm the crankcase to a even temperature under no circumstance use any metalic object to any internal parts of the motor it will very quickley render the motor totally scrap only . once heated the liner will almost fallout as will the rear bearing rember to mark the way the piston is to reassemble in the right direction hope this helps barry

[Heliheaven]

Heat!

You need to warm the aluminium casing up, either by popping it into a pre heated oven for about 10 minutes or ,as do, by playing a heat gun over the engine for a minute or two.

As the aluminium expands the liner will simply pull out of the top.

With the liner out the conrod will slip off the big end and and the piston assembly will be free.

The crankshaft should now come out quite easily.

Re warm the case and then hold it with a cloth or gloved hand and firmly tap back of the engine onto a stout block of wood. Eventually the back bearing will fall out. Warm the case again and the front bearing can be removed the same way but by tapping the cylinder on the block of wood.

Good luck!

[dam74]

Cheers guys, don't have my butane torch with me at the flat so I'll try and use the oven method.

As regards to using metal tools on the conrod. The engine in question is part of an item that I was disputing over in eBay/Paypal. A person at Hobbystores said it had too much rust damage and said it should be binned however I'm going to try and repair it as a temporary means as I plan to sell the Century Hawk Pro to attempt to get some of my money back. If I can't get it running I'll buy an OS .50 engine. So if the engine was in good condition I'd never use a metal tool on the conrod and get some sort of slotted nylon tubing to lock the crankshaft movement. However the engine was classed as binnable so if I get it to run I'll be happy

[dam74]

Any recommended temperature as I don't want to overcook the engine

[Dedcalm]

I use the 10 mins at 200 degrees C in the oven method on an old baking tray - it will stink a bit but with a window open its not too bad - remembering to first remove the carb etc. My rear bearing dropped out and the front I lifted out while the block was still hot using a long nose pliers opened up to press against the inner face of the bearing - no pressure needed to lift it out so no damage occurs to the bearing (not that it matters anyway).

All the rest is as above, heat is your friend will help to remove the liner which will free up the conrod to slip of the crank pin and then the crank can be removed.

[Aidi]

Links and Downloads Manager - Engines / Motors - RcHeliaddict

Follow this manual and you wont go far wrong. Principal is the same for your engine even though its a Hyper 50 in the manual.

Rgds
Aidi

[dam74]

Rob, already had the oven preheating to 200c. Top and back end was already removed to expose piston sleeve/lining and conrod.

[dam74]

I'm taking this works because of the differences in types of metals being used and there expansion properties when heated.

Andy you said the engine casing is alu? It doesn't really look like aluminium to me, as it has that dull matte look to it. The kind of look that cast metals give.
I take it the piston, piston sleeve etc are steel.

[dam74]

Ok piston and sleeve/lining removed. Haven't got access to the bearings yet. There seems to be a retaining washer/circlip on the crankshaft that is holding the front bearing? Does this sound correct?

[dam74]

Tried reheating the casing but can't remove bearings