JR x2610 set up for Twister 3d expert HELP

[Streetluge Chris]

This is all new to me so I need a bit of help to get me started Please
Now have the twister and the 2610 but no clue on what I am doing as to setting it all up manged to download a manual for the 2610.

spec
Twister 3D complete with CNC swashplate

Twister Brushless Motor

30A Speedcontroller

GWS 6 Channel Rx

Airtrix Micro Heading Lock Gyro ag 500

3 x Twister CCPM servos

1 x Hitec HS81 Tail Servo

Graupner 11.1v 1500Mah Lipo

[Disc]

Hi,
that Twister sounds like my old one....

Has it got a Carbon main shaft by chance? (It will be Black)

[Ade_Law]

your best bet is to find a local club or flying school. it would take all day to take you through the ins and outs of it here.

where are you based?

Ade

[Streetluge Chris]

Hi disc
Thats what I was thinking If you name is Russel yes it must be your old one it does have the carbon main shaft.Can you advise on seting it up?

[Disc]

Hi
Well its my old Twister 3D that much I can tell you.

I sold it to Russel about 3-4 weeks ago for much needed cash.

As Ade said where are you? Find a local Club. I don't fly JR so I
cannot help you much. All I can tell you is I did have it flying around
in 10pmh winds.

[Raptorite]

As Ade said, it will take some time to explain the setup, but since I have set one up on a 2610 in the last couple of weeks, I will run through some of the steps with you now;

Before you do anything, unplug the three wires that connect to the motor, we dont want any accidents do we!

When you turn the transmitter on, make sure you hold down the two buttons on the left, this should take you into the setup mode. From there you need to select the model name and set that as "Twister 3D" and then set the swash type as CCPM, it will tell you on the screen which servo does what, so follow that carefully.

On the subject of plugging things into the receiver, you will need to look up the functions in the book that came with the transmitter, as JR use different channel assignments than Futaba, which is most likely the way the receiver will be labelled as well. One example of this, is most radios will have you put the ESC, or throttle into channel 3, whereas on JR radio's the throttle function is channel 1.

The other thing you need to tweak while you are in that setup screen is the switch assignments, the bottom one, "FLT-M" or something like that, is the actually the idle up switch, I usually have this set to aileron D/R switch (Left one), the gear channel switch, which is actually used for gyro mode (heading hold/Normal rate mode) is usually set to left switch. Once you have made those changes in the setup mode, turn the transmitter off and on again, this time dont press the two buttons on the left when you turn it on.

Once the transmitter has come on, by pressing the two buttons on the left of the screen, as you did before, you will enter the programming screens. As the model has already been setup before, you wont need to do much if anything with the rod lengths, so it is just a question of going through the screens one at a time setting the parameters you need.

The first one you need to look at is the servo reversing screen, as one or more of the aileron, elevator and pitch will need reversing. The best way to check is to move the cyclics and pitch and watch what happens to the swash, it should move in the direction of the cyclic inputs and move downwards as you increase the pitch, similarly it will move upwards when you decrease the pitch.

As far as pitch range goes, all I did was to make sure the blades were at 0 degrees and everything else was absolutely flat and parallel with the throttle at centre stick, then check there isnt any binding at either top stick or bottom, then just tweak the pitch curve if necessary to stop the motor from bogging down at full stick if necessary.

It is also worth adding 30% expo (+ on JR) on both the aileron and elevator, as this will make the model feel far more stable in the hover. I also added 15% expo on the rudder, to stop unwanted movements if you happen to skew the stick when you make a pitch change.

Leave the pitch curve linear, other than to maybe take a little off the top and bottom if necessary, although I didnt need to do this on the models I setup.

Set the throttle curve to be linear on normal mode, but be a constant 85% in idle up 1, which I think on that radio is called stunt mode.

Leave the ATV's for the rudder channel at 100% and set ATV's on the gear channel to 55%, that should take care of the gyro. One point is that when you move the rearmost left switch (which we setup as the gyro mode earlier) you should see one of the LED's on the gyro change from green to red or vice versa, if it is green you are in normal rate mode and if it is red you are in heading hold. As the model has been previously setup, I am assuming the gyro direction has already been set, but the direction LED on the gyro should be green, so with the gyro in normal mode you should have 2 green LED's light up, and if it is in heading hold, you should have 1 green and 1 red LED on the gyro.

The only other thing to make sure you have setup is the throttle hold, as a safety feature more than anything else. This is set in the normal menus, and the switch should be set to the right switch.

Thats more or less it, I would strongely advise you have it checked over by an experienced pilot before you try and fly it, so seek the assistance of a local club, shop or training school.

Cheers,
Pete.

[Fixxxer]

Bloody hell pete, you should be nominated for the booker prize with that post

[Raptorite]

Thanks Craig

Now, engage brain and start hitting those keys I often wonderered why I can type without looking at the keyboard now

Cheers,
Pete.

[Streetluge Chris]

Thats fantastic as it gives me the info on where to start as there a bit more to it than a dragonfly 4
I have contacted a club which I hope will be able to help.

Thanks again.

[Raptorite]

You're welcome Chris

There is allot more to these things that the dragon fly, but I'm sure once you get into it you will love it.

I'm glad you have contacted a club, you will certainly find their help and support invaluable.

Cheers,
Pete.

[Streetluge Chris]

I have had the TX set up by the model shop I did my first bunny hops with it
I noticed that when the blades are level they have negtive pitch It seems when its spooling up I am using 3/4 throtle to get lift is that wright?

[Ade_Law]

do you mean that when the blades have zero pitch your stick is behind centre?

Ade

[Streetluge Chris]

When switched on, throtle at rest the blades have negtive pitch leading edge is pointing down should they be level?

[Ade_Law]

slightly down or level. but definitly less down than up

Ade

[Raptorite]

The 3/4 stick hover point you mention sounds like whats called a 3d pitch curve to me. The stick position should be around 5/8 hover point for a true 3d curve though.

The reason for this is later on when you move into 3d flight, you will want to be able to hover the model inverted, so having an upright hover point at centre stick is no good. Hence the reason why right way up hovering is 5/8 stick as the inverted hover point should be around 3/8 stick, that being the case, you should have 0 degrees pitch (flat and level blades) at centre stick.

Cheers,
Pete.