Twister 3D collective setup

[Mercuriell]

Hi guys - I finally found a post on this forum remarking that the swash plate on the 3D moves down to increase pitch and thought this was due to a mistaken assembly in my new 3d. Can anyone tell me how to set up the radio for this - I have a Futaba 6X and its taken me 2 weeks, a burnt out servo, a scared cat and a few dings in blades and me just to get the cyclic settings right and my last try which involved reversing the throttle servo channel proved expensive. Needless to say I don't have any friendly folk to turn to - the heli- expert at the local model shop was as surpirised as I that swash going up to heaven produced negative pitch. I really wish there was just a few more hints in the instructions ....

[Ade_Law]

you need to reverse the collective servo. How to do this is in the manual for the transmitter.

Where are you?

Ade

[Mercuriell]

Not so easy

In Aussie Land where model helos are in their infancy _ I was selling Graupner and Dieter helos in the UK in the 70s.

The collective is controlled by 3 servos in 120 configuration so there isn't just one to reverse - I wondered if I had to reverse all 3

[Ade_Law]

swash mix screen and change the collective pitch value from plus to minus.

model helis arent in their infancy anywhere! check out rchelispot which is an international forum. might help you find somebody local to you.

Ade

[Mercuriell]

Thanks

for your help - I'll try that tonight - bit easier now that I know it's also known as the Eco 8 which explains lack of hits I had on search

[Disc]

Twister 3D needs the push rods all turing down about 5 turns.

Swash 3 in the Transmitter and yes its right the Swash goes down for
+ Pitch. get all 3 to push the swash up or down then your getting there
normal Tranny pitch curves are fine for hovering about.

[Mercuriell]

Is the Twister 3D the same as the ECO 8 and the ARK 400 ? - thinking of upgrade parts - ie better main shaft which seems very soft. There also seems a lack of info on the Twister 3D which makes me think its a recent badge engineered addition.

[Disc]

Is the Twister 3D the same as the ECO 8 and the ARK 400 ? - thinking of upgrade parts - ie better main shaft which seems very soft. There also seems a lack of info on the Twister 3D which makes me think its a recent badge engineered addition.

Ah no you cannot use Eco 8 parts and no idea about the Ark 400.

You can go out and buy 6mm Carbon Rod and make your own main shafts
it is a vast improvement. JP Perkins also do a metal swash plate which
is worth having. The other bling for now i'd give a miss on.

[Kwickkwack]

What makes you say give the upgrades a miss Disc (having just bought it but not yet fitted), apart form maybee it is expensive

[Disc]

What makes you say give the upgrades a miss Disc (having just bought it but not yet fitted), apart form maybee it is expensive

weakest points on the Twister 3D are tail drive gear and servos. If you want
it fly and be stronger I'd recomend new servos on the CCPM stronger ones!
(the ones it comes with okay for circuits but any more you'll strip gears)

Carbon Main Shaft made with 6mm carbon you make these yourself.
(you'll also get a few out of one rod of carbon)

Metal Swash Plate - upgrade does make it smoother.

The other stuff will all help but i'd receomend the other stuff above 1st. Better servos are money well spent instead of the other goodies to begin with.

[Mercuriell]

The answer (for now) - can not believe what a chore setting up the Futaba 6X Super has been - anyway for anyone else who is stuck in this situation here's what worked:
Servos - Front right (elevator) Ch2 / Back right (R cyclic) Ch6 / Back left (L cyclic) Ch 1

Radio setup: Reversed channels 1 & 2 / Swash plate 3 and SWSH settings Ch2 -30 / Ch1 -30 / Ch6 +30 - the values down from 50 till I get the hang of things

FWIW the thing came with a bent main shaft, a warped main gear with one fixing screw floating loose having been stripped out of its thread.

Sure have learned a lot along the way - might have been easier to buy a kit and build from scratch than rely on an 'Almost ready to fly' - JOKE

[Disc]

The answer (for now) - can not believe what a chore setting up the Futaba 6X Super has been - anyway for anyone else who is stuck in this situation here's what worked:
Servos - Front right (elevator) Ch2 / Back right (R cyclic) Ch6 / Back left (L cyclic) Ch 1

Radio setup: Reversed channels 1 & 2 / Swash plate 3 and SWSH settings Ch2 -30 / Ch1 -30 / Ch6 +30 - the values down from 50 till I get the hang of things

FWIW the thing came with a bent main shaft, a warped main gear with one fixing screw floating loose having been stripped out of its thread.

Sure have learned a lot along the way - might have been easier to buy a kit and build from scratch than rely on an 'Almost ready to fly' - JOKE

Ah well Perkins have said there not test flown! although the Box says they were. Warped gears are okay if runs well and doesnt rub or bind against
anything. Also the manual says seek help etc or have experience of CCPM.


But this is one reason of many we say go bigger heli wise because there
tougher and easier to fly.

[Kwickkwack]

Fair point Disc, I agree the tail drive is a pain, especially as you have to buy the whole set to get the failed one, what servos do you recommed, i have had several failures, (OK broken when crashed).
As my Twister 47 has just expired, i have just used two from that, but the next "Whoopsie" will mean new ones, any hints welcome.

[Gaza07]

Hi Kwickkwack your twister bell 47 has expired you got any useable bits left going
cheap

[Kwickkwack]

What you looking for?,
Basically one motor packed up took out the receiver, I will have a look and see, but what evers left will be available, I will take a look and get a list