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  • Belt CP pitch settings

    Hi guys.

    My batterys have finaly arrived so im gettng ready for my maiden belt CP flight in the next few days.

    I bought myself a pitch guage to check ive set everything up properly.

    I was supprised that my pitch at middle stick was zero

    By tweaking the swash mix I now have +10 degrees on both blades at full positive pitch.

    But at full negative pitch I have -12 degrees.. which is too much.

    The swash and everything else look right, so why dont I have -10 at full negative?

    Should I check all my links ? or just alter the pitch curve to -10, 0 , 10 and leave it at that

    Im still a noob so I wont be needing all that negative pitch just yet, but I dont see any advantage with learning with a very mild curve only to have to learn again with a more agressive one.
    sigpic

  • #2
    Take my word for it, You want -2, 0, +10

    ONE Eddie Gold Star!

    Kinross Radio Model Flying Club

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    • #3
      I would have -4/3 and +10/12 in normal mode and in Idle Up i usually have it around 10-+ but can set it for 12 each way
      "Anger and Frustration bring the best out of my flying ability.. because generally I don't give a shit either if the machine hit's the deck or stay's in the air - both will accomplish satisfaction, but most of all it exerts the feeling of flying conservatively. - Callum"

      www.callumheli.co.uk

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      • #4
        Im half guessing here but is it because the swash plate is too high or too low? I kinda remember that from the sokal11 head setup videos for the blade 400 on youtube. I'd imagine it was a simular setup?

        Once you got it equal both ways +10/-10 then use your pitch curve on the tx to change it to -3/+10

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        • #5
          Originally posted by est1976 View Post
          Im half guessing here but is it because the swash plate is too high or too low? I kinda remember that from the sokal11 head setup videos for the blade 400 on youtube. I'd imagine it was a simular setup?

          Once you got it equal both ways +10/-10 then use your pitch curve on the tx to change it to -3/+10
          Thanks, this was the problem.

          I moved the swash down a fraction and I now have +10/-10
          If I try and use any more the swash binds up.

          Ive set my normal pitch curve to -3/+10
          And my idle up to -10/+10
          (that way my friend Dave can see if it will fly upside down safely)

          OK now thats out of the way I have more questions

          At the moment my throttle curve is 0, 50, 100 linear.
          And 100% across the board when in Idle up.
          Should I run a little less at midstick in idle up.. like 100,90,85,90,100 ? if so why?

          Also does anybody know what the gain should be set to on the Esky Gyro?
          At the moment its at 50% but I dont understand if it needs to be over 50% to be in head hold or is this only applicable to specific types of gyro.

          The transmitter is a DX6i if thats important.
          sigpic

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          • #6
            Oh, another question.

            Should I leave the carbon fibre paddles on the heli, or swap them for the heavier yellow ones? Im assuming that the yellow ones will make the heli less responsive.
            sigpic

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            • #7
              The reason you would run 100,90,80,90,100 or similar is because at mid stick (0 pitch) you need less head speed as there is less wind resistance, as you apply pitch the blades slow due to drag so you have a higher headspeed to compensate, and the more pitch you add the faster it goes round.

              If your only hovering/basic circuits in idle up then run your throttle around 80 across the board, you only need the 'V' curve really when your doing 3d i should also point out that the 'V' curve is more suited to Nitro rather than electric, unless your into heavy 3d, i not sure why, someone did tell me but i have forgotten.

              For your gain turn it up (clockwise) then hover it, your tail should start wagging, when this happens you then need to turn it down until it stops wagging, but you need to find the point where it doesnt wag then if you put 0.5% in it does, this point just before it wags is where you want to be.
              You can do the gain on your tx.

              As for paddles, i think you are right about the carbon being lighter so more responsive but i also think its down to personal preference, i personally would use the plastic ones then switch to carbon once i was good at flying and less likely to smash it up.

              Hope this helps
              Nik.

              Before you ask:

              About 2 miles
              Over £500
              Very difficult
              Over 80mph
              NO, you can't have a go



              Don't forget the 'Search' and 'Thanks' buttons.

              RIP Anthony 'Tinny' Lombardi (25195517)

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Holst View Post
                Thanks, this was the problem.
                At the moment my throttle curve is 0, 50, 100 linear.
                And 100% across the board when in Idle up.
                Should I run a little less at midstick in idle up.. like 100,90,85,90,100 ? if so why?
                on my blade 400 I run 0,65,90,90,90 in normal mode and 95,95,95,95,95 in idle up. Im not 3'd ing but I've started doing back flips, loops and inverted hovering. I think a higher headspeed makes the blade more stable and less likely to be affected by the wind.

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                • #9


                  As sqwidge says, you really only need a v curve for nitro, the reason why we use straight 80 in Idle UP 1 and 100 In Idle UP 2, is because it keeps the ESC and motor in good condidtion,

                  Most people think that alternating the throttle will keep the ESC and Motor in good condition because its not always running at 100% throttle, But in theory no, this is because voltage is alternating in the ESC and alternating currents in the ESC and Motor is not good, because of heat issues. So going from a low voltage to a mid voltage then down to low and the high can deteriorate the ESC and Motor, whereas running it at a constant 100% or 80% you eliminate pretty much the alternating current, therefor putting less strain on the motor and ESC and prolongs the life,

                  If your using the DX7, for IDLE UP 1 i would set it for straight 80/85 and for IDLE UP 2 i would set it for straight 100,

                  but if your using a radio that only has 1 Idle up (Like the DX6i) then i would set it for something like 85/90 depending on what type of flying your wanting to do, if i was 3Ding then i would have it at 100, if not then 85/90


                  Hope this helps a bit,
                  Regards
                  Callum

                  "Anger and Frustration bring the best out of my flying ability.. because generally I don't give a shit either if the machine hit's the deck or stay's in the air - both will accomplish satisfaction, but most of all it exerts the feeling of flying conservatively. - Callum"

                  www.callumheli.co.uk

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    belt cp

                    I have my gyro set to 49.5 and 63.5 and this was sufficant to hold the belt steady also if you are only beguining like me i was advised to just set pitch to -2, 0 and +10 and not to worry about idle as it would be a while untill i get to use it and if you end up switching by mistake it could be an expensive mistake as everybody keeps saying lerning to hover its like balancing a marble on a convex lense

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                    • #11
                      The idle up is so that my more experienced friend can fly the heli.. and hopefully show me what its capable of

                      Thanks for the gyro settings, I had it set at 50 and 60 previously so I will try 65 and adjust it down.
                      sigpic

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