Help with setup on a Logo 10

[Fixer]

Can anyone supply me with a wiring diagram for the logo 10; I am using a JR R700 receiver with no instructions.

The motor and controller seems to be wired up OK.

Im also using a Fubata 9C Super Radio and Im unsure what servos to assign to what stick.

[Ade_Law]

the 9c manual covers it pretty well.

http://www.futabarc.com/manuals/9c-manual-v1_2.pdf

strongly recomend you ditch the R700 rx For minimum a schulze alpha or preferably a PCM reciever.

page 77 of the manual will tell you the channel numbers. Jr recievers dont have the numbers marked they just give you the functions. "throttle" is channel 1. "Aileron" is channel 2 etc but the markings are different to futaba as channel 1 on futaba is Aileron

Ade

[Fixer]

I had a good look in the manual before posting but it guided me to the FQA on there internet site, after having another look at the manual today down at the club Its a bit clearer now.

Ive just bought a Futaba PCM receiver so Ill try again tonight

[Fixer]

I've managed to set the swash plate up properly with the JR R700 receiver but it wont work at all with the Futaba PCM 1024, it will power the Gyro but thats it, even if I try PPM it still doesnt work. I cant understand why the JR should work and not the Futaba when Im using a Futaba Radio.

[Ade_Law]

good...

This is how I do it.

Left servo in channel 1
Front (or rear) in channel 2
Right servo in channel 6

Defeult the model memory.

Go to parameter menu and set swash type to SR-3

Inhibit revo-mix
inihibit hover pitch and throttle adjustment.

fit horns onto the servos temporarily and use the servo reverse and swash mix to get the servos working the right directions.

Bring the pitch up to centre stick. Fit servo horns to servos so that they sit at EXACTLY 90degs to the pushrod from the swashplate. Do not use sub trim.

Level the swashplate, by adusting the length of the pushrods to the swashplate from the servos. perferably with a swash tool but by eye works ok too.

Now go up through the linkages above the swash getting it all level and 90degs and zero degs pitch.

then check your top and bottom pitch values and adjust the swash AFR as needed. if you need too high/low value you need to change the length of the servo arms and do it all again :-)

if you got that right it should be flat through the entire collective travel.

hope this helps.

Ade

[Fixer]

Cheers Ade

Thats just taken care of my Saturday night, I have already done most of what you listed until it gets to the levering the swash plate and from there on.

[Smoothound]

Fit servo horns to servos so that they sit at EXACTLY 90degs to the pushrod from the swashplate.

That's always the bit that is a PITA as unless you have about 30 packs of arms there is always one that won't level :evil:

[Ade_Law]

Fit servo horns to servos so that they sit at EXACTLY 90degs to the pushrod from the swashplate.

That's always the bit that is a PITA as unless you have about 30 packs of arms there is always one that won't level :evil:

another good reason to use futaba servos, when you turn the arm 90degs on the servo spline it actually goes 87.5 lets you swing the horn round and try different arms until you get one that sits perfectly 90 degs

Ade

[Smoothound]

Which I guess is fine assuming all the arms give you the correct length as well...

Pity Futaba don't make a servo that fits the Trex then

[Ade_Law]

so whats a Futaba S3107? :-)

http://www.futaba-rc.com/servos/servos.html

but, I dunno if the same applies to these servo arms and cant seem to find them in the UK!

people seem to be using the 3150 in glider wings, Eolo sized models CCPM and trex tal servos

Ade

[Fixer]

Ade

Did you mean Fit servo horns to servos so that they sit at EXACTLY 90degs to the pushrod from the swashplate, or 90% to the servo arm?
I hope you were right first time but I've a funny feeling you weren't

The new R1490DP wont work, all it does is power the gyro; could it be a bad crys

[Smoothound]

3107's and 3108's are pretty crap if you ask me, don't fit the Trex nicely, no gears or arms available last time I looked. On top of that they get sloppy at the speed of light.

The above might be a slight lie as I have most experience with the 3108's :P

[Ade_Law]

fixxer I meant that using the ball link as the corner. The angle between the pushrod from the swashplate to the servo arm should be 90degs.

smoothound, I suspect that futaba have just bought one of the many micros servos and rebadged it?

Ade

[thomashome]

I put 3150's in my Eolo and they're excellent.

[Sao]

fixxer I meant that using the ball link as the corner. The angle between the pushrod from the swashplate to the servo arm should be 90degs.

smoothound, I suspect that futaba have just bought one of the many micros servos and rebadged it?

Ade

No The Futaba servos look to be there own design, as for Horns well Hitec HS50/55 horns fit, they need radgiing on as the splines are ever so slightly different but they do fit.

I've had no trouble with the S3108's less slop than hs 50's and lighter than the 55's.


Back on topic.

It's worth noting for future that JR and Futaba do not share the same Ch number assignments, Just FYI.

If its a Futaba PCM Rx than it will need Dual Conversion Xtals I think this might be the problem?