Raptor 30 with OS37H Engine - ISSUE!

[Mr_Si]

Hi all again,

Sorry if this has been posted before, but this is something that all you Raptor 30 users must know, if you're building one from new, and putting an OS 37H Engine in it...

Make sure that when you install the engine, you take off that little black carbon washer that is on the engine shaft. If you don't you will run into serious problems after your first engine run. (I can't explain what happens, but Nigel at Heli-Lessons.com will be able to tell you what happens)

It's not something that's covered in the manuals, so beware!

Best,

Si

[Ade_Law]

that is one of the common issues with newbe helis along with,

tail pulley allembled incorrectly
tail pushrod not routed correctly
mainshaft upside down.

and about a million other things :-)

Ade

[Mr_Si]

Yeah the belt was wrong on mine too. Nigel Fraser Ker, my tutor pointed this out to me. Once that was done he had to change the tail blades respectively too.

Oh another one that got me was that I had attached the blades too tightly, I was suprised to learn that the blades need to be almost loose! But now understand that they find their natural place and also it's to help keep them from damage, should they hit something.

The engine thing is a real bug though, esp if you don't have the correct tools jam the piston, to undo the bits from the motor shaft.
I learnt that those tools that are sold in model shops that you stick into the exhaust are a BAD IDEA!, and that you will wreck the motor if you do it. So I'm glad I never bought one of those!

[Smoothound]

Best way to lock any glo engine is the old toothbrush handle in the crank cutout after removing the carb.

[Ade_Law]

i prefer an electrically insulated scew driver up the back end.

Ade

[Smoothound]

No comment ops:

[G-DAVE]

At the risk of stating the obvious - What's wrong with the O.S. Crankshaft locking tools -- about 20 for the two which covers the full range of motors ????

Dave

ps Ade - this is no place to discuss such personal fettishes !! :lol: :lol:
There might be children about.

[Ade_Law]

its one tool that covers all engines and costs a few quid,

oh yeh AND its a screwdriver :-)

Ade

[Mr_Si]

Hmmm from what I hear, the toothbrush method is very primative and doesn't do the engine any good.

But... Each to their own...

Smoothound can have his toothbrush
Ade can have his screwdriver

You can also get an Hirobo tool, which is like a great long flat bit of metal, has three holes in, and screws to the drive shaft of the motor. you then have the third hole to put the socket spanner in to undo the things you stick into the bell. But it is very dependent on the strength of the bolts that you use, so don't use your normal ones, use some spares.

(Please excuse that awful description).

Or you can make a special one on a milling machine, that sticks up the back end of the engine and stops the thing moving.

[Smoothound]

I fail to see how hardened metal crank is going to be damaged by a plastic toothbrush but I agree with the primitive bit :lol:

I'd rather be doing that than using one of these piston locking tools they sell that means the piston crown, small end, rod and big end take all the force :roll: 8O

[Mr_Si]

hmmm, yeah maybe that's what I was thinking...

[Made2Fade]

I agree with smoothound i cant see what damage a bit of plastic will do to metal parts in any motor. I can see a metal screwdriver of any kind doing damage as stating the obvious its metal on metal. I also use the primative technique.