Helis are very dangerous for beginners

[Fixer]

Well after spending a few days getting my newly acquired Raptor 30 running I decided to try it even after reading dozens of articles about going to someone experienced in flying helicopters beforehand.

I first tested all the servos to make sure they were working correctly then
I slowly increased the throttle just enough to lift it off the ground slightly and then put it away.

For some reason the No3 servo started increasing the throttle on its own to a point were it was off the ground and spinning round and I couldnt stop it, I sort of did the splits and stopped the tailfin with my foot and pinched the fuel line until it stopped.
Its a good job I had read how to stop it in another post beforehand.
The only damage is to the tail blades that scuffed the floor when spinning round and took a few mm of the edge.
I was very lucky this time and there wont be a next trust me.
So if you are a newbie like me and thinking of having a go dont, listen to what every one is saying and get professional help first I wish I had now.

Fixer

[Janek]

Fixer, glad you learned "the lesson", and survived it unharmed 8O

Find a local club to help out

Where are you located ?

[Fixer]

Janek

The best of it is I have already found a local club and I'm having my first lesson next Saturday if the weather s OK so I have no excuse.

I think the best part of the lesson will be on setting it up properly.

I live near Wakefield in West Yorkshire.

[Ade_Law]

thanks for posting this fixer, hopefully it will stop somebody else making the same mistake.

not all are as lucky as you.

Ade

[Dedcalm]

Could Idle up have been switched on accidently as this would (if programmed and enabled) cause the throttle to increase and not be affected by the left stick.

Can you re-create the servo movements with the engine not running ?

Sounds like you had a very lucky escape, it is amazing how much energy is stored in a spinning set of rotor blades even is only 55cm's long. They certainly need to be treated with a great deal of respect.

All the best for next Saturday, let us know how you get on and if you find the cause of the throttle increase.

Rob

[Fixer]

Rob

I certainly got away lightly apart from two big blood blisters that appeared on my fingers this morning, I wasnt aware the blades had hit me so it just goes to show how quick it all happened, God when I look back it still frightens me.

I havent found out what I did wrong or what failed but I have noticed the voltmeter going erratic when the ruder stick is moved, the V2 kit was new but the radio gear, and electrics were all second hand along with the engine (now replaced with an OS 37). The seller said he had flown it just to set it up but I have my doubts. I thought I was getting a good deal but most of the flight kit as been well used and needs attention or replacing, thats eBay for you.

The cut switch on the eclipse 7 radio only worked when the stick is past 50% so to me he should have had the throttle set up so the idle position was at the top but I'm only a newbie after all.

Ive spent all day on the net trying to fine a way of reversing it but I couldnt so I took the thing to bits found witch pot controlled it and reversed the two outer wires and hey presto it works fine, next time I get into difficulty I can cut the engine and keep well away.

That is why they call me Fixer; I just love taking things apart to see how they work.

I also noticed today all the blades suffered after scuffing on the concrete so I think they all need replacing, Im not sure if this will be done in time for Saturday it all depends on the cost but I will still take it anyway.

[Fixer]

thanks for posting this fixer, hopefully it will stop somebody else making the same mistake.

not all are as lucky as you.

Ade

When I look back, it frightens me to think what could have happened; now I understand why every site relating to Helis tells you to find a club first.

I bet there is a few more out there like me if the truths known.

Fixer

[Dedcalm]

I cant believe that the pot would need reversing unless someone had previously been "tinkering" with the workings. The Eclipse 7 is a computer radio so it may have some bizarre mixing/throttle curve etc set up.

It might be sensible to factory default the memory in the Tx and start the programming from a known baseline.

Out of interest what Rx battery capacity is on the heli, it may be underrated (e.g. 700mAh) or old or not taking a charge correctly. I would think a good sized Rx pack would be 2100mAh or more these days, I fly with a 3300mAh pack but I have a full complement of digital servos.
Also check the what the rudder servo is as if its digital is will be drawing more current than a analogue standard, this would cause the voltage indicator to drop while the servo moves but it should be no more than 1 possibly 2 led increments (on a 7 segment display). If it does the Rx battery cannot source suitable current and should be changed.

There is good and bad on eBay but for this sort of thing I like to buy new especially radio gear...

All the best

Rob

[Fixer]

I dont think anyone had even been inside the radio before, Hitec have a help forum were a few people have asked the same question, the only answer was reverse the servo but that only changes the throttle position and not the cut switch.
http://www.hitecrcd.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi

All the servos are Hitec HS 425BB, the battery is a Titec NICD 1100ma and seems to hold a good charge but maybe a bit small at 1100ma.

I did set the radio channel back to factory default in channel 1 before I started and set the throttle curves to 0 25 50 75 100 but I must admit I dont understand just what all the settings in the radio are for even after reading lots of explanations on the net.

And has for buying on eBay, now Ive looked round I could have bought new for what this has ended up costing me with fitting a new engine.

I have two questions if thats OK.
The first is, both wooden blades have caught the ground and now have a slight chamfer going about up the blade, will they need replacing.

The second question is when the blades are out and in line with the body can you tilt them away from you and then back again, the reason I ask is when setting the pitch the blades can move just buy handling them.

[Dedcalm]

You should replace the main blades as they have been damaged. They can be had brand new for about 15 all in from ebay.

Dont understand the 2nd question really, the blades should not be loose in their grips but should not be so tight that they cant balance themselves when the headspeed increases. There should be no movement in the blade compared to the blade grip.
There will be a small amount of movement of the grips due to the feathering spindal (rod between the blade grips) being mounted in the rubber dampers.

Out of interest what Gyro are you using ?

Rob

[Fixer]

What I was trying to say was its not the blade that moves its the head assembly that moves.

The gyro is a RC Vision Heading Hold 2000 that seems to have a mind of its own, sometimes when I turn, every thing on the rotor shaft comes right out then other times it doesnt.

[Dedcalm]

Do you mean that the head assembly is not solid on the main shaft ? There should certinaly be no movement in the head assembly that is bolted (Jesus bolt) through the main shaft.

The heading hold gyro should if working correctly try to keep the heli on a particular heading. On switching on the rudder servo will hold its position until the boy is moved left of right at which point the rudder should move to compensate for the movement. If the heli is then moved back to its initial heading the servo should return to its centre position.

Rob

[Fixer]

I can't get the rudder to stay central no mater were I connect it to the servo the rudder shaft always goes back in so when the heli hovers it goes into a fast spin, I tried reversing the gyro but its still the same, should I disconnect the gyro and then set the tail up first.
I have no instructions for the gyro and couldnt fine any on the net.

Ive just ordered two sets of wooden blades on eBay for 33 delivered first class.

[Dedcalm]

I will see what I can find out about the gyro although I have not had experience with this type myself. I now use a 401 but have had a CSM400 as well and before the heading hold gyro's I flew a standard rate gyro.

It certianly does not appear to be behaving correctly. Check that the trim for rudder is central and there is no sub trim configured (although as you defaulted the config 1st this should not be a problem). This would cause the servo to move over to one end.
Try connecting the rudder servo directly into the receiver to ensure that it behaves "normally" when the gyro is not in the loop.

Will let you know what I find out about the gyro...

Rob

[Fixer]

Ok I will try the servo on its own first, all the trim and sub trim settings are at zero.