Need a Backwards Step

[Talisa]

As you will see from the models I have listed in my signature I have basic Blade CX2 through to a fairly powerful 600 series helicopter. Every since I have had the 450 converted to the DX7 transmitter, I find that my ability to confidently hold the 450 in a hover and move it around very difficult.
I have been practising nose in flying with the Blade and certainly am more confident now at flying in any direction. However, it is a massive step due to the huge performance difference between the blade and a 450SE.

Is there a helicopter that is a middle ground between the Blade and 450? I am looking for a steeping stone that is really half way between the two. Not overally bothered about fixed pitch. All I really care about is the fact that when I screw up nose in practise on the respective heli, it is relatively inexpensive to repair.

Regards,

[andylinney]

To be fair, the 450's a cracking tool to learn on - cheap to repair too!

What I've found is that learning on the 450, the moves on the larger helicopter are far easier as it is more stable in the air.

The hint I used on nose in is to gain some height and just be ready to flick the tail around if needs be and then correct from tail in. However if you're confident with the blade you can already do it, it's just confidence on the 450 that's holding you back.

Just give it a go!

Good luck, Andy.

[chugga-bug]

Don't forget you can also slow the headspeed down, and soften the pitch & cyclic controls too. This will make it a bit less lively.

[jboweruk]

I know where you're coming from mate, I was looking at the Blade400, love the look of it and all, but looking at the size of my garden and seeing how far away it gets when it goes wrong I'm fast thinking it's not a good move after all, so myself would like something more.... handleable but still capable of outdoor flight.

[Smoothound]

None of these helis are really designed with garden flying in mind unless you have a huge garden.

A quick hover to check it's setup right is about all I would do on anything bigeer than a CX2

[Andy from Sandy]

Change the pinion for one with less teeth to slow the headspeed down.

To make the model more docile either set up dual rates on aileron and elevator so you can switch between full throw and less throw on the cyclics or change/lower the swash AFR settings. Add flybar weights as far out as possible for extra stability.

Personally I would get to grips with the T-Rex 600 and leave the little guys alone.

[Disc]

Er use the T-rex 600e to learn with its 10 times easier.

The smaller the helicopter more twitchy it is and leave the Blade alone it won't help you much more just add to confusion of what the decent helicopters are doing.

[andylinney]

The Blade is great for learning the very basics on the thumbs but beyond that they're falsely stable for learning on beyond the basics.

Make the move onto the bigger helicopters that will react in a 'real' manner - there isn't really a middle step that I'm aware of, it's a case of taking the plunge and getting on with it...

If you crash then it's all part of the learning curve, don't be afraid of crashing otherwise you'll not progress. Bear in mind if you can fly on the sim then you can fly the real thing, it's the wallet factor that's the only real difference. Equally don't be overly concerned with dumbing the controls down, try to get used to them as they are and it'll be far more enjoyable as you do start to progress and once you 'get' hovering you'll wonder what all of the fuss is about and the other stuff will come easily.

[Talisa]

All comments noted and taken on board. I would like to calm the 450 down a little just so I can get used to it. It used to be calm and I was more than happy flying it, it is only since the move to the DX7 am I scared of it. I used to have a switch on the 35MHz transmitter that would increase the amount of input required from the sticks therefore slowing the whole thing down but I am unable to find the equivelant switch on the DX7.

Regards,

[andylinney]

Just set up some exponential on the sticks, have a read through the manual and it will explain how to assign it to a swtch if you so wish although I leave it on all of the time at about 35% making the controls softer around the middle whilst keeping the full movement available if needed.

[moonmanflyer]

Best way is to lower your throttle curve and also to reduce your swash travels, this is the 3 percentage ammounts on the 120 deg screen. that calmed my lads down as he was struggling.
The bigger the heli, the more stable it will be but more scary also, saying that i learnt most of my flying on the bigger helis
CP helis are always more challenging than the contas will ever be, it just takes time, eventually it will all of a suddern click and you will be away.

[Andy from Sandy]

I have a slight disagreement about using expo to "soften" the feel around mid-stick. Small amounts work large amounts maybe asking for trouble.

The scenario is when the beginner starts to get into trouble. The pilot puts in an incorrect stick movement and the helicopter starts off in a direction so the opposite input is given but nothing appears to be happening, so they put in more input and all of a sudden they get a massive input and now they have overdone it in the other direction.

To tame a model reduce the actual cyclic pitch available and use heavy paddles.

[Talisa]

Are the switches to which I refer in previous notes relating to halving the responses of the switches on the controlluing of the helo on the DX7

Elevator Dual Rate
Aileron Dual Rate

and questionably
Mix-Rudder Dual Rate

Regards,

[moonmanflyer]

No such function on the DX7, this is a century thing, had it on my mini pred.
Lowering the swash travels will do the same thing. on the 120 deg swash screen change the ammounts, so if say they are -60, +60, -60, change to -40, +40, -40, and so on then as you get more confident up these figures, just be carefull there is no binding on the lowest pitch setting on the frames or bearing block.
I agree about the expo, it could cause more probs than it solves due to counter correction problems. Best way to learn is with no expo, teach your thumbs to be accurate.
You can mess about with the dual rates that will be similar, but best to do as above, change one thing instead of 3.

[Andy from Sandy]

Are the switches to which I refer in previous notes relating to halving the responses of the switches on the controlluing of the helo on the DX7

Elevator Dual Rate
Aileron Dual Rate

and questionably
Mix-Rudder Dual Rate

Regards,

Yes. The idea of dual rates is that with the switch in the normal position you get full cyclic pitch but whe you operate the switch you reduce the throw by some pre-programmed amount, set by you. I don't know your tx, alot of others do however. It should be documented in your instruction manual.

Futaba and JR TX's have dual rates selectable to an asiigned switch.