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Yet another newbie looking for help moving from a basic co-ax to "proper" heli's...

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  • #31
    Originally posted by proffalken View Post
    Blade msrx ordered from kings Lynn models this morning, I'll let you all know when it arrives.
    Congratulations! Take it easy, it'll be VERY different to that coax you've had until now! :-)
    Tom
    sigpic Synergy E7SE - Kontronic Helijive 120+ ESC, vBar Neo
    SAB Goblin 630 Competition
    - Castle Edge 120HV, vBar Neo
    Blade 700X - Castle Edge 160HV ESC, Mini vBar
    Logo 550SXv2 - Castle 130LV ESC, vBar Neo
    .... and a Gaui X3
    Spektrum DX8 ; Mikado VBC ; RealFlight 7 & neXt sims
    ... and two EGS'



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    • #32
      Thanks all, I'll start with a slow hover and build up from there... :-D
      Blade MSRx
      Triton 450
      Spektrum DX6i

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      • #33
        It's arrived, the batteries have been charged and I've crashed it at least 20 times into various items of furniture in my lounge!

        I'm hooked. This thing is amazing.

        The only issue I seem to have is that it drifts left as it takes off and then right once it's clear of the ground.

        I've tried playing with the trim on my controller but it doesn't seem to have much effect - could this be because I'm flying it in a small space?

        Thanks,

        Matt

        P.S. If anyone knows how to reset the trim, that would be helpful...
        Blade MSRx
        Triton 450
        Spektrum DX6i

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        • #34
          Drift left on take off is 100% normal. ALL single-rotor helis do it due to the tail rotor pushing the heli sideways. You need to learn to correct slightly right with cyclic on take off. After a while it becomes second nature.

          Check on Google for "translating tendency" (the technical term for it)

          DO NOT TRY TO TRIM IT OUT!!!
          Tom
          sigpic Synergy E7SE - Kontronic Helijive 120+ ESC, vBar Neo
          SAB Goblin 630 Competition
          - Castle Edge 120HV, vBar Neo
          Blade 700X - Castle Edge 160HV ESC, Mini vBar
          Logo 550SXv2 - Castle 130LV ESC, vBar Neo
          .... and a Gaui X3
          Spektrum DX8 ; Mikado VBC ; RealFlight 7 & neXt sims
          ... and two EGS'



          Comment


          • #35
            Good explanation : (albeit showing right drift on full-size heli with anti-clockwise rotors)

            Tom
            sigpic Synergy E7SE - Kontronic Helijive 120+ ESC, vBar Neo
            SAB Goblin 630 Competition
            - Castle Edge 120HV, vBar Neo
            Blade 700X - Castle Edge 160HV ESC, Mini vBar
            Logo 550SXv2 - Castle 130LV ESC, vBar Neo
            .... and a Gaui X3
            Spektrum DX8 ; Mikado VBC ; RealFlight 7 & neXt sims
            ... and two EGS'



            Comment


            • #36
              Matt don't trim it mate its a fbl heli, its natural for it to drift left on takeoff you will soon learn to counter that, if the swash is level it will be fine. Don't forget when you put the battery in place it flat down ASAP if not sooner :-) Good luck and cut your cards up while you still have chance !

              Ritchie

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              • #37
                I think the beep noise changes pitch when the trim is centred on the stock tx, I believe it also has 2 flight mode settings in the controller, one which is hard for beginners and the other even harder :-)

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                • #38
                  Originally posted by tomatwalden View Post
                  Drift left on take off is 100% normal. ALL single-rotor helis do it due to the tail rotor pushing the heli sideways. You need to learn to correct slightly right with cyclic on take off. After a while it becomes second nature.

                  Check on Google for "translating tendency" (the technical term for it)

                  DO NOT TRY TO TRIM IT OUT!!!
                  Originally posted by Ritchieme View Post
                  Matt don't trim it mate its a fbl heli, its natural for it to drift left on takeoff you will soon learn to counter that, if the swash is level it will be fine. Don't forget when you put the battery in place it flat down ASAP if not sooner :-) Good luck and cut your cards up while you still have chance !

                  Ritchie
                  Dammit! Wish it had said "DON'T TRIM IT OUT" in the manual...

                  I've noticed that the swashplate seems to be tilted to one side if I hold it in my hand and up the RPMs (or even catch it mid-flight!), do I need to be quicker placing it on the solid surface? Is it this calibration that resets the trim, or should I just get it flying and reset to the middle position?

                  Originally posted by Ritchieme View Post
                  I think the beep noise changes pitch when the trim is centred on the stock tx, I believe it also has 2 flight mode settings in the controller, one which is hard for beginners and the other even harder :-)
                  Yeah, I read through the manual and actually I can't find much difference between the two, so I'm going to stick with the "high" sensitivity because I'll have to move to it at some point either on this remote or another so I might as well start on it now!
                  Blade MSRx
                  Triton 450
                  Spektrum DX6i

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                  • #39
                    Good idea, how you finding the comparison with the coax so far

                    Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

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                    • #40
                      Originally posted by Ritchieme View Post
                      Good idea, how you finding the comparison with the coax so far

                      Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
                      Its great.

                      Being able move backwards is nice, as is being able to move from side to side without having to rotate the nose.

                      Its a lot more tricky to fly, but that's mainly because the controls are more sensitive and its very fast!

                      Cheers,

                      Matt
                      Blade MSRx
                      Triton 450
                      Spektrum DX6i

                      Comment


                      • #41
                        Originally posted by proffalken View Post
                        Dammit! Wish it had said "DON'T TRIM IT OUT" in the manual...
                        It caught me out too with my first single rotor heli!

                        I've noticed that the swashplate seems to be tilted to one side if I hold it in my hand and up the RPMs (or even catch it mid-flight!), do I need to be quicker placing it on the solid surface? Is it this calibration that resets the trim, or should I just get it flying and reset to the middle position?
                        This again is normal. The controller is expecting the heli to be flying in free-floating space. Tiny movements detected by the gyros will try to be cancelled out by the control board. But, because you're holding the heli, the stabilising inputs to the swashplate aren't moving the heli. So, the controller gives more input ... etc. etc.

                        In short, you cannot hold a heli down and try to watch the swashplate like that - it's the controller being confused by not actually flying!
                        Tom
                        sigpic Synergy E7SE - Kontronic Helijive 120+ ESC, vBar Neo
                        SAB Goblin 630 Competition
                        - Castle Edge 120HV, vBar Neo
                        Blade 700X - Castle Edge 160HV ESC, Mini vBar
                        Logo 550SXv2 - Castle 130LV ESC, vBar Neo
                        .... and a Gaui X3
                        Spektrum DX8 ; Mikado VBC ; RealFlight 7 & neXt sims
                        ... and two EGS'



                        Comment


                        • #42
                          So here's something you're going to need to get your head around ... You have to control the heli ALL THE TIME! Single-rotor helis (excepting the 45-degree flybar ones) are inherently unstable. Let go of sticks, and they will crash. Guaranteed.

                          In contrast, a co-axial, if you let go of the sticks will settle into a stable hover. Your mSRX however, if you let go of the sticks will start drifting, and quickly accelerate and crash into something.

                          The reason is that real helis, once given an input, keep acting upon that input. For example. If you get the heli into a hover and tilt the nose down to go forwards, the heli starts moving away from you. Now, if you move the stick back to the middle, the heli STILL MOVES AWAY FROM YOU.

                          You need to give an opposite input (pull the tail down) to stop the movement. It's like balancing a ball on top of an upside-down plate. You're constantly giving corrections to maintain a stable hover.

                          Nobody said it would be easy! Wouldn't be much of a challenge if it was!
                          Tom
                          sigpic Synergy E7SE - Kontronic Helijive 120+ ESC, vBar Neo
                          SAB Goblin 630 Competition
                          - Castle Edge 120HV, vBar Neo
                          Blade 700X - Castle Edge 160HV ESC, Mini vBar
                          Logo 550SXv2 - Castle 130LV ESC, vBar Neo
                          .... and a Gaui X3
                          Spektrum DX8 ; Mikado VBC ; RealFlight 7 & neXt sims
                          ... and two EGS'



                          Comment


                          • #43
                            That explains a hell of a lot, I was expecting a stable hands-off hover!

                            Can't wait to get to a larger space!

                            Thanks.

                            Matt
                            Blade MSRx
                            Triton 450
                            Spektrum DX6i

                            Comment


                            • #44
                              No - stability is why the co-axials are rubbish. You are constantly fighting the heli's tendency to stop flying forwards and settle into a hover. That's why they don't fly very fast and get blown out by the slightest puff of wind. It's also why they are so limited in what they can do.

                              Trust me, it won't take long to get used to. For the moment however, try to keep the tail pointing towards you so that the cyclic controls (right stick - elevator and aileron) always give the input you expect to the heli. As you gain confidence, you can move to 45-degree orientations and side-on. Nose-in flying is the first big milestone as left/right/forward/back are all reversed. Try maintaining that stable hover when all the controls are backwards!

                              Enjoy! And have paypal at the ready for all the spares you'll need! My bet is the skids will be the first spares you'll need!
                              Tom
                              sigpic Synergy E7SE - Kontronic Helijive 120+ ESC, vBar Neo
                              SAB Goblin 630 Competition
                              - Castle Edge 120HV, vBar Neo
                              Blade 700X - Castle Edge 160HV ESC, Mini vBar
                              Logo 550SXv2 - Castle 130LV ESC, vBar Neo
                              .... and a Gaui X3
                              Spektrum DX8 ; Mikado VBC ; RealFlight 7 & neXt sims
                              ... and two EGS'



                              Comment


                              • #45
                                Welcome to the forum Matt hope you enjoy !
                                Raptor E700
                                Raptor G4







                                Guiness World Record Pilot 2011/2012/2013

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