3 BeastX questions

[trillian]

if you increase your throws you can get the six degrees in menu j for less servo movement equaling less servo movement to keep the blue light in total swash limit menu L

Hmmmm, that would seem counter-intuitive going by the guidance in the manual, in other words the Beast thinks more movement of the servo is better not less. In any case I have a blue light at menu J.

[Andy from Sandy]

It's 16mm but on this head the link to the swash is not a direct connection, there is a mixer arm that provides some leverage.

I have only ever seen a direct link from swash to blade grip. Who is the manufacturer?

[trillian]

I have only ever seen a direct link from swash to blade grip. Who is the manufacturer?

It's made by Microheli.

[rapidgaz]

I have only ever seen a direct link from swash to blade grip. Who is the manufacturer?

JR make 1 and kasama i beleive

[dav20043]

Hmmmm, that would seem counter-intuitive going by the guidance in the manual, in other words the Beast thinks more movement of the servo is better not less. In any case I have a blue light at menu J.

it is a balance mechanical gain and servo resolution the same as you would on a gyro with a tail servo you wouldnt use a servo arm so short you didnt get full travel

[trillian]

it is a balance mechanical gain and servo resolution the same as you would on a gyro with a tail servo you wouldnt use a servo arm so short you didnt get full travel

What I'm saying is that the manual notes for that step talk about shortening servo arms or extending link levers on the grips, the idea being if you don't get a blue light there it's looking for more movement from the servos not less.

But my J menu setup is fine anyway.

So if I lengthened the servo arms I don't know why it would still give me a blue light unless the acceptable range in menu J is quite large. Conversely if it's happy with how far the servos travel now to get 6 degrees (which it is) then why would it expect so much more movement for the limits.

Anyway, I'm not going to fiddle with it anymore until I get a chance to fly it properly. I managed a little hover in the garden earlier so I know everything is basically working in the right direction etc.

[Mikej]

Trillian,

I didn't get blue on the cyclic set-up on either of my Beastx machines (Hurricane 550 and Copterx 450), so I decided that I would try them and then sort them out later - to cut a long story short, nine months later and they are still on exactly the same settings . People get stressed about the blue light - it just means that things are optimal - most of my flying is sub-optimal, so why stress about the settings

I love the Beastx-ed helis - they are fantastic

[trillian]

Trillian,

I didn't get blue on the cyclic set-up on either of my Beastx machines (Hurricane 550 and Copterx 450), so I decided that I would try them and then sort them out later - to cut a long story short, nine months later and they are still on exactly the same settings . People get stressed about the blue light - it just means that things are optimal - most of my flying is sub-optimal, so why stress about the settings

I love the Beastx-ed helis - they are fantastic

Yeah, I tend to think that unless some of those 'sweet spot' ranges are quite tolerant, there's just no way it can always be a blue light in every setup on every heli. I posted the question on the Beast forum and the reply was that red is usually OK on menu L. So we'll see if it does anything strange in flight.

Basically if it doesn't work well I'll just take it off that heli because I'm not going to start upgrading it and end up with something I don't want it to be.

[GravityKills]

the usual problem with direct swash-to-blade grip is that people use too short arms on the blade grips.
I can see from the microheli picture alone that they are too short. EDIT but what I didn't see is that it uses reduction levers. This pilot needs new glasses
In a good setup you usually can see immediately that the arms on the blade grips are very long. It's suboptimal if you're concerned about the looks, otherwise it's the only way to go.

All my helis use direct swash-to-blade grip links. I don't see the point in adding reduction levers, because it gains nothing at the expense of more complexity.edit but I think I like that design above, it's indeed an elegant solution.

You can BTW convert a 450 to reduction levers using the mixing arms in the flybar cage holes. See the gyrobot page for instructions. I used this for a while, it works fine with stiff dampers to prevent unwanted delta mixing.

[trillian]

the usual problem with direct swash-to-blade grip is that people use too short arms on the blade grips.
I can see from the microheli picture alone that they are too short. In a good setup you usually can see immediately that the arms on the blade grips are very long. It's suboptimal if you're concerned about the looks, otherwise it's the only way to go.

Well, what may not be obvious in that photo is that the Microheli head is NOT direct to swash from the blade grips. There are arms that double as swash drivers and transmit the swash movement to the grips. At a guess I'd say they are creating about a 50% reduction in movement to the grips, maybe more. It's a very good design, 'very simple as it eliminates the need for a separate swash driver.

[GravityKills]

Well, what may not be obvious in that photo is that the Microheli head is NOT direct to swash from the blade grips. There are arms that double as swash drivers and transmit the swash movement to the grips. At a guess I'd say they are creating about a 50% reduction in movement to the grips, maybe more. It's a very good design, 'very simple as it eliminates the need for a separate swash driver.

oh alright. I completely missed the point. I'll edit my earlier post

The topic of matching servos to cyclic travel has been discussed to death.
My opinions are usually not very popular. Here is one of these:
- the majority of heli owners does not use the full potential of the heli. Either they aren't pushing it to the limit, or they've got other issues that obscure the servo matching problem, so you don't notice the difference
- the majority makes the consensus
- the consensus is "it doesn't really matter". Even Align got this wrong at first. They realized their mistake (new bellcranks etc for FBL).

The point is, if you want to use the heli to the full potential, this needs to be set up optimally.
There is one exception I know of: In a 600 you'll get away with a bad geometry, because the servos are overdimensioned. But not so in a 700 anymore.

[trillian]

oh alright. I completely missed the point. I'll edit my earlier post

The topic of matching servos to cyclic travel has been discussed to death.
My opinions are usually not very popular. Here is one of these:
- the majority of heli owners does not use the full potential of the heli. Either they aren't pushing it to the limit, or they've got other issues that obscure the servo matching problem, so you don't notice the difference
- the majority makes the consensus
- the consensus is "it doesn't really matter". Even Align got this wrong at first. They realized their mistake (new bellcranks etc for FBL).

The point is, if you want to use the heli to the full potential, this needs to be set up optimally.
There is one exception I know of: In a 600 you'll get away with a bad geometry, because the servos are overdimensioned. But not so in a 700 anymore.

Well, I started with seriously optimal geometry if it were a normal flybarred heli. Max resolution of the servos, everything parallel at mid-stick and zero pitch, etc.

It's always a balance between servo resolution and something that resembles linear geometry. These days we have super high torque servos (not in this case as it's a budget 450 project) so it's not power that's a problem, but a lot of potential resolution is often being thrown away.

[GravityKills]

In my opinion, in a flybarless head it's not that important to have a linear geometry.

it's inside a feedback loop, You won't feel any of the nonlinearity at the sticks.
Also, I believe it's pretty small. I once tried to measure it, and the linearity error disappeared in the "measurement noise" except at crazy pitch values).
It's the same on the rudder. No one really cares about the nonlinearity in the linkage, because the feedback loop via the gyro makes it practically linear.