BeastX advice needed

[Vanquish]

Had around 10 flights with the beastx unit on the 500 and cant seem to dial out a cyclic wobble after rapid cyclic movements. It seems to be worse on the elevator. I've played around with the swash gain settings but doesn't seem to help.

I've noticed people saying the gyro pad might be to blame for swash gain issues as it does seem very spongy.

Has anyone had this problem?

Apart from this i'm very impressed with it, its ability to maintain a hands off inverted hover even in a moderate breeze is brilliant

[GravityKills]

Hi,

is your servo geometry correct? There is a test on cyclic where (I think) 6 degrees cyclic pitch should show a blue light. Do this carefully.
Too much overall swash gain can cause wobble.
Too much direct to-swash mixing can cause wobble (2nd poti).
The same for phase error: is the beastX properly aligned with the frame? Is the swash driver exactly centered?

To check the swash driver, hold one ball link on the upper swashplate between thumb and forefinger, and hold the aileron ball link (on the lower swashplate) at the same time. This aligns the swash driver with the frame. Now the blade grips should be exactly perpendicular to the frame (or parallel). Check this very carefully and rotate the driver as needed.

It may also improve, if you use heavier blades with less leading edge. Extreme 3D blades aren't that great for FBL and result in wobble.

[Vanquish]

Hi,

is your servo geometry correct? There is a test on cyclic where (I think) 6 degrees cyclic pitch should show a blue light. Do this carefully.
Too much overall swash gain can cause wobble.
Too much direct to-swash mixing can cause wobble (2nd poti).
The same for phase error: is the beastX properly aligned with the frame? Is the swash driver exactly centered?

To check the swash driver, hold one ball link on the upper swashplate between thumb and forefinger, and hold the aileron ball link (on the lower swashplate) at the same time. This aligns the swash driver with the frame. Now the blade grips should be exactly perpendicular to the frame (or parallel). Check this very carefully and rotate the driver as needed.

It may also improve, if you use heavier blades with less leading edge. Extreme 3D blades aren't that great for FBL and result in wobble.

Thanks,

I've checked all the above and cant find any problems, how accurately does the beastx unit have to be inline with the frame? visually it is inline with the frame but I havnt measured it accurately.

Might try a different gyro pad/velcro strip over the unit to see if it helps.

[GravityKills]

I've had wobble with a mini V-Bar when the tape got too soft in the summer heat. A round or two of electric tape fixed that.

[waveydavey]

I saw the same movement or similar this after when changing directions in stationary flips. I get an aileron wobble when going from forwards to backwards and vice versa.

[rapidgaz]

i had a simular prob with my 600 with mikado head using inovation dampers, changed to standard align 1s and all is ok now, so worth a look at the dampers

[waveydavey]

Brand new dampers with the Align head, it's a strange wobble and only happened on change of direction

[raptormark]

Heres some possible causes:
Too much Cyclic gain / bad geometry. The Beastx likes 6 Deg Cyclic
Some people do have problems with moounting pads being too soft or hard. A soft pad can cause the unit to move (wobble) during fast direction changes such as Tic Tocs. A strap can help or changing to a firmer tape. Straps can transmit vibration to the unit.
If the unit is not mounted on the centre line then this can cause problems.
This is imperative as the three integrated sensors will later only measure the difference in the movement of their own particular axis. Askew or non-centred mounting will lead to clearly worsened flying and controlling characteristics. One clue to this being wrong is Later on if the helicopter drifts away heavily when doing pirouettes one reason could be askew positioning of the central unit.




hopes this helps straight from the llama's mouth

[Vanquish]

i had a simular prob with my 600 with mikado head using inovation dampers, changed to standard align 1s and all is ok now, so worth a look at the dampers

Using hard K&B 3D dampers, might try changing back to standard align ones.

Its a bit like the beastx is over compensating during fast cyclic movements. Hopefully changing dampers, gyro pad and fine tuning swash geometry will sort it out.

Thanks for the ideas