soldering question if I'm just changing connectors

[trillian]

If I get something, in this case an ESC, that already has connectors on it and I just want to change to a different connector. Would it be OK if I just heat up the existing connector till the solder melts the wire comes out and then heat up the new one and simply move the solder-soaked wire straight into the new connector. Or is there anything about doing it this way that may not be readily apparent?

It seems to me that if it has a connector then the wire is already going to be thoroughly tinned and have solder wicked up into it and should be able to just get stuck right into another connector (obviously making sure the new connector is heated enough and the solder is sticking) rather than chopping it and starting with bare wire.

[dillwhacker]

You should apply a little fresh (flux cored) solder, so the new flux allows the existing solder to flow properly.
I would avoid 'lead-free' solder and use 60/40 with rosin flux.
HTH

[Andy from Sandy]

The new connector should be tinned first. If the new connector is a bucket type and the wire is a smaller diameter then the bucket should be filled with solder first and whilst molten the wire inserted all the time keeping the heat applied to make the solder on the wire flow. On large connections additional flux can be applied so that an excessive amount of solder is not needed for its flux content.

[scoobystig]

just like andy said really
tin the new connector and then move the wires across while keeping the heat on

[Bob H]

As Steve, Andy and Trev have already said, there is absolutely no problem with doing that at all Trillian. the only issue you are likely to get is the solder on the wire may become a dull 'granulated' colour rather than nice, shiney and metallic after you've taken it out of the original connector. If that happens the solder just needs reheating and maybe just a little fluxed solder adding to it (remember to flick/wick off any excess solder on the wire end after adding new solder).

[trillian]

Thanks everyone for your suggestions. That's exactly how I plan to do it, tinning the new connector (EC5) , partly filling it and then stick the wire in and make sure it all flows together. I have 60/40 flux core solder and a little tub of flux paste so I think I'm good to go on that now. I had such a struggle with soldering the big wires till I got the flux and a butane iron.

[Bob H]

You should apply a little fresh (flux cored) solder, so the new flux allows the existing solder to flow properly.
I would avoid 'lead-free' solder and use 60/40 with rosin flux.
HTH

+1
Lead free solder may well be HSE endorsed and have the environmental seal of approval but its the lead that makes solder 'flow' properly. Solder just doesn't work without it unfortunately.

[cjcj1949]

When I first used real flux I was amazed after years of using multicore, even leaded. Flux is really good. If you don't have it the other methods should work depending on the state of the old solder. You can always take the old solder off by using a solder sucker or solder braid. In the end if it looks good it probably is, but a good pull test will tell you as well. It can be difficult with connectors like deans in plastic housing that prevent the use of a lot of heat.

[Stu girdler]

With the EC5 do not fill the bucket up as, if you get solder on the outside you will find it hard to get the bucket back into the blue housing.

if you do get some on the outside just use a nail file (sorry wife!) to smooth off the outside again.

regards
stu

[Sao]

With the EC5 do not fill the bucket up as, if you get solder on the outside you will find it hard to get the bucket back into the blue housing.

if you do get some on the outside just use a nail file (sorry wife!) to smooth off the outside again.

regards
stu

Not only will it be hard to get in the blue housing but the housing will eventually split, learnt this after soldering up my Goblin with EC5's for the first time, I have now filed off the solder and put on new blue housings, no more problems

[cjcj1949]

You could probably stop the solder sticking with some masking tape on the outside, or putting the connectors into a wooden block. Remove excess solder with a sucker and flux will spread the rest out evenly.

[trillian]

You could probably stop the solder sticking with some masking tape on the outside, or putting the connectors into a wooden block. Remove excess solder with a sucker and flux will spread the rest out evenly.

Yeah I've had a few where dripping solder on the outside made it difficult to get into the housing. I think I just have to be careful not to overfill it.

[Bob H]

With the EC5 do not fill the bucket up as, if you get solder on the outside you will find it hard to get the bucket back into the blue housing.

if you do get some on the outside just use a nail file (sorry wife!) to smooth off the outside again.

regards
stu

Definitely. I've also taken to using the blowtorch attachment of a butane soldering iron to heat up bullet connectors for soldering work on bullet connectors rather than using a soldering tip. The indirect heat means there's no chance of inadvertantly putting solder on the outside of the pin while trying to keep it hot enough with the tip when inserting the wire. Must use a vice/holder for the bullet, obviously.

[Zeeflyboy]

soldering question if I'm just changing connectors

+1 - on EC5s (bullets) I always use a torch

[danch]

Definitely. I've also taken to using the blowtorch attachment of a butane soldering iron to heat up bullet connectors for soldering work on bullet connectors rather than using a soldering tip. The indirect heat means there's no chance of inadvertantly putting solder on the outside of the pin while trying to keep it hot enough with the tip when inserting the wire. Must use a vice/holder for the bullet, obviously.

Same method I use, I have the SolderPro butane iron & use it as a mini blow torch with EC5 part in a small vice, solder flows nicely & find it so much easier to get the heat in & wire soldered.

Dan