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  • Idle up, niosy as hell

    Hiya again,
    So i finally went idle up yesterday.
    Am using
    mini t with stock motor and esc
    align 2200mah 25c
    V blade carbons on main and trex carbons on tail
    tracking ok, no shakes.

    Using 100/90/80/90/100 , problem was when i switched to idle up the niose the heli produced ( blades i think ) was quite loud and off putting, heli flew fine though, just that bloody niose, i know they do get louder as you idle up, just making sure.
    ta
    parkzone micro sukhoi 26xp
    Aerofly
    Realflight g4.5
    Jr pcm9xII

  • #2
    On my electrics if I'm not using gov mode I tend to run a much tighter curve than that. Something like 100/95/90/95/100 or even tighter 100/97/95/97/100. Having a 20 point difference often seems to drop headspeed too much although I do usually just use gov and a flat line...
    Phil
    "Be who you are and say what you think...
    Because those that matter...don't mind...
    And those that mind... don't matter"


    Blade 130x, Park Zone Mini Sukhoi, EDF F16 thingy, some Gliders and some broken stuff

    Comment


    • #3
      If ya normal throttle curves are not near what ya running when idle up is engaged ya will notice the diff in headspeed ... if ya not comfy with it just lower the point by 5% each one till ya comfy with it at the speed ya want
      Knight 3D
      http://northeast3d.talkheli.co.uk/
      http://www.lindensflyingclub.co.uk/

      Comment


      • #4
        idle up on the rex i use 100 / 100 / 95 / 100 / 100 and it makes for a really stable responsive flight i love the blade slap on tight turns from high speed but yes the noise is alot higher on a high head speed (cant comment on the mini t as i have the t rex) but enjoy the speed
        T-Rex 500 ESP FBL, BeastX
        8FG Super
        MCPX with DX6

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by butmuncher View Post
          Hiya again,
          problem was when i switched to idle up the niose the heli produced ( blades i think ) was quite loud and off putting, heli flew fine though, just that bloody niose, i know they do get louder as you idle up, just making sure.
          ta
          Very intimidating isnt it??? Dont worry about it mate. Its supposed to be like that. Theres like 3,000 rpm or thereabouts (depending on your pinion/setup) going through that head so it will be a little offputting. Thats like roundabout 1,000rpm more (give or take a little) than a nitro model. Unfortunately its needed if you want to do FFF/Rolls/Loops/Flips or 3D in general. Dont worry about it, just go and fly. You will hear alot of swooshing/blade farting noises coming from a headspeed like that. Natural for that type of helicopter. My Mini Titans exactly the same lol. Best thing to do is just go fly it like ya stole it. I have 90/85/80/85/90 for idleup 1 and 100,95,90,95,100 for idle up 2. Normal mode is set to 0/40/55/75/100 (reason for the sharp increase on point 2 is so that theres still a descent headspeed for when your landing or taking off... If ya didnt then the heli wouldnt be very stable around those points). Obviously more headspeed = sharper controls too. My settings are for a 13 tooth pinion on the stock motor with FlightPower Evo 25 3s 2500 packs. I use BBT Maniac 321 blades but use the same settings with my Radix 315's too.
          Cheers
          Lee
          Last edited by Made2Fade; 02-05-2008, 12:49 PM.
          Lee
          sigpic
          www.raptoruas.co.uk
          www.lee.rcha-uk.com
          www.gensace.de

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Made2Fade View Post
            Very intimidating isnt it??? Dont worry about it mate. Its supposed to be like that. Theres like 3,000 rpm or thereabouts (depending on your pinion/setup) going through that head so it will be a little offputting. Thats like roundabout 1,000rpm more (give or take a little) than a nitro model. Unfortunately its needed if you want to do FFF/Rolls/Loops/Flips or 3D in general. Dont worry about it, just go and fly. You will hear alot of swooshing/blade farting noises coming from a headspeed like that. Natural for that type of helicopter. My Mini Titans exactly the same lol. Best thing to do is just go fly it like ya stole it. I have 90/85/80/85/90 for idleup 1 and 100,95,90,95,100 for idle up 2. Normal mode is set to 0/40/55/75/100 (reason for the sharp increase on point 2 is so that theres still a descent headspeed for when your landing or taking off... If ya didnt then the heli wouldnt be very stable around those points). Obviously more headspeed = sharper controls too. My settings are for a 13 tooth pinion on the stock motor with FlightPower Evo 25 3s 2500 packs. I use BBT Maniac 321 blades but use the same settings with my Radix 315's too.
            Cheers
            Lee
            Dont worry about it, just go and fly. You will hear alot of swooshing/blade farting noises coming from a headspeed like that. Natural for that type of helicopter. My Mini Titans exactly the same lol. Best thing to do is just go fly it like ya stole it.
            Wicked, cheers dude, oh well i suppose if it all disintergrates in mid air i'll just have to take it, omg, so so scared, am very comftable with standard flight, it's like being back at the begining again when just spooling up would scare me. Glad to here about those farting nioses, that was the bit that scared me!
            Ps
            I meant VBLADES not RADIX ,sorry.
            Last edited by butmuncher; 02-05-2008, 02:27 PM.
            parkzone micro sukhoi 26xp
            Aerofly
            Realflight g4.5
            Jr pcm9xII

            Comment


            • #7
              , idle up today, ignored the sound, as i came in low in idle up i noticed that the vbblades was well out of track, took her back up took idle up off, brought her back down and still out of track, had a last qwik fly and as i came into land noticed the blades was back in track.
              May just leave it in the cupboard now fopr a month untill i can get the sonix cnc head as from what i read this is a problem with the plastic head?
              Ta
              parkzone micro sukhoi 26xp
              Aerofly
              Realflight g4.5
              Jr pcm9xII

              Comment


              • #8
                try a dab of CA on the screws that hold the mixing arms into the washout base. Also the mixing arms above that screw into the seesaw/flybar holder. Do the same for the 2 screws that hold the seesaw hub to the main hub. Sometimes these lot back out as there only going into plastic, the CA will help them hold. Alot of people screw them too far in and it strips the plastic. Bear in mind that you will want to get these off again in the future so only use a very small amount. Its a common thing with the stock plastic head unfortunately. If your blades are out of track after you do this then get them back in track the normal precedure and they should stay in.
                Lee
                Last edited by Made2Fade; 04-05-2008, 10:57 PM.
                Lee
                sigpic
                www.raptoruas.co.uk
                www.lee.rcha-uk.com
                www.gensace.de

                Comment


                • #9
                  Ta dude for the info, lol get the glue out, i think i'll just wait untill i get the cnc head again before flying, still have me raptor to keep the brain ticking so alls cool.
                  Really like todo alot of idle up practice on this mini t and feel the need to know its all good without glue and the numerous other fixes.
                  Must admit if i knew about this problem i wouldnt of got the mini t.
                  Still apart from this being my only gripe im thrilled with the little beast .
                  parkzone micro sukhoi 26xp
                  Aerofly
                  Realflight g4.5
                  Jr pcm9xII

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    It would be the same on other helicopters mate. Its one of the issues with screwing metal screws into plastic. There never gonna stay put forever. These parts can be metal to metal on other models so theres no problem. You do actually get CA in the kit along with anerobics retainer (used for locking bearings in) and threadlok (metal to metal). A lot of the time its overlooked but its actually common practise, again not just with this model. You see secretly your laughing saying 'yeh get out the glue lol' but in reality you should have done it anyways mate. (Hope that didnt sound like i was having a go lol) Did you use any CA throughout the build??? Basically what im saying is your not fixing another issue as you should have put a small amount of CA on them anyways.
                    Cheers
                    Lee
                    Last edited by Made2Fade; 05-05-2008, 12:04 AM.
                    Lee
                    sigpic
                    www.raptoruas.co.uk
                    www.lee.rcha-uk.com
                    www.gensace.de

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      It was a winner from eday dude, Allready biult with electronics installed.
                      Nope do'nt use ca glue, got none, probly may get some.wink wink
                      parkzone micro sukhoi 26xp
                      Aerofly
                      Realflight g4.5
                      Jr pcm9xII

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Often called 'Super Glue', CA glue is very versatile and popular for many applications from general repair to strengthening and fabrication.
                        Yes i have some of that, super glue, thanks for the advice dude.
                        I was suprised to find that the ca glue is something i allready use,god bless google
                        parkzone micro sukhoi 26xp
                        Aerofly
                        Realflight g4.5
                        Jr pcm9xII

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by butmuncher View Post
                          It was a winner from eday dude, Allready biult with electronics installed.
                          Nope do'nt use ca glue, got none, probly may get some.wink wink
                          Ah right... that'll be why then lol. Best thing to do would have been to strip down and check that threadlok/CA/retainer has been used. Little tip... be careful not to get any glue on the actual mixing arms or moving bits themselves. You only want the smallest amount on the screws that hold them in only. Do that then get the blades back in track and let us know how ya get on.
                          Lee
                          Lee
                          sigpic
                          www.raptoruas.co.uk
                          www.lee.rcha-uk.com
                          www.gensace.de

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                          • #14
                            Ayup, problem sort of solved, swapped to woodies and idle up sounded as it should, nice and clean wizzing niose , it was the vblades that was the problem.
                            i'll just stick with woodies for awhile, evrything in the head was ok, i glued them parts anyway just to be on the safe side.
                            I wo'nt be using the vblades again though, there now on ebay.
                            parkzone micro sukhoi 26xp
                            Aerofly
                            Realflight g4.5
                            Jr pcm9xII

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              what was wrong with them? Did you check the balance on them?
                              Be careful with the wood blades at high rpms. Not sure what they can go up to but i wouldnt trust them at 3,000rpm personally.
                              Cheers
                              Lee
                              Last edited by Made2Fade; 06-05-2008, 11:59 AM.
                              Lee
                              sigpic
                              www.raptoruas.co.uk
                              www.lee.rcha-uk.com
                              www.gensace.de

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