Synergy N7, The 'BIG' build thread.

[Jamin_00]

[QUOTE=Rctintin;1104440]Ben, after this thread is finished, I have the E7se to post up, that will be right up your street mate!![/QUOTE]


Been there but not with the SE. The first one was nice but but got let down by a few points which I expect the SE addressed and was the reason why it was released but I not paid no real attention to it so be cool to actually see :)

Cheers Rob Botos :)

[Rctintin]

Thanks Ross, and thanks for the advise a few times when I asked for it :smug:

[Rctintin]

Ben, you've been listening to that Mr Northcott again!! :victorious:

[ROSSCO]

[QUOTE=Rctintin;1104444]Thanks Ross, and thanks for the advise a few times when I asked for it :smug:[/QUOTE]

Your very welcome mate! Always glad to help where i can. :D

[yuppyflyer]

Super detail build Rob, thanks!

[cupracing]

Love your build threads! The quality in the kit looks the best I've seen.

[Varelco]

Nice thread Rob, keep it coming!

There are never enough build threads on the forum, we all like looking at hi res pictures of shiny stuff lol :)

[Rob O]

Great build thread Rob (as usual) enjoying this one mate as may be in the market for a 90 nitro in the summer

Sent from my GT-I9505

[Rctintin]

Thanks so much for the positive comments and PM's guys, I really appreciate it. This is my way of putting something back into the hobby :)

Next installment tonight.

[Malc1]

What a nice piece of kit!

[philipjdall]

I have an E7se and similarly it is an amazing bit of kit! I love your main gear photo's - isn't it a work of art?!

Just wait till you fly it...

[Rctintin]

O I have, 15 flights now mate !! It's stunning, but more of that later....

Just added some pics to the first page, and going to get some more up tonight :smile:

[Rctintin]

Next thing was to add the Fuel tank. First job is to line the carbon frame with the supplied edging strip. As I have installed this before on the N5c, it is very easy to trim it to short. I started in the middle at the bottom, and worked it around the cut out, really pushing it tight into the corners. Once I came back around to the bottom, I cut it about 3mm longer than where it started, and managed to get it sat really snug into the frame butting up tightly with the other end. Now do the other side as the first.

Now onto the tank. There is a curved pressure nipple to be installed via the main hole in the tank. All I did was to get a tie wrap, and push it into the bottom of this fitting. Make sure the 'O' ring is sat down against the bottom flange. Now feed the fitting through the hole and guide it up through the vent hole. There is a small knurled nut that gets screwed onto the top of the nipple to hold it in place. I used a little blue thread lock on this nut, but make sure you do not over tighted it. You do not want to squeeze the O ring to much and push it off its seat.

I chose to install an OS bubbleless clunk and thin walled tube. There is no length given in the manual for this tube, because most people will decide if they want their own choice of clunk. What you need to do is line it up outside the tank with the fuel stopper in aprox the right place, and the end of the clunk resting on the bottom with its far end finishing just before the back of the tank raises up. Now insert the fuel tube through the big grommet and add the clunk and stopper to its ends. I chose to double up the tubing around the fittings inside my tanks. Just cut a length of tube about 4mm long and slide over a pair of needle nose plyers. Stretch open the tube, and push your fuel pickup tube through it. Now you have very secure fittings inside the tank. Pop the clunk into the tank, and then work the grommet into place. Now I have found a little bit of spit!! on the stopper helps it slide into the grommet :drool5:

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To fit the tank into the frame, again a little saliva rubbed around the edgeing strip will allow the tank to slide straight in, and once its dried, it's in nice and tight.

[Rctintin]

The head is like a work of art! Once again, this comes pre assembled, but needs to be fully stripped as there is no grease in the thrust bearings, or thread lock anywhere. The head design is the typical FBL head with 'proper' swash follower arms and separate pitch links.This is all very well machined and tight tolerances, almost watch movement stuff!! The Feathering shaft is suspended in the centre of the head block by a Delrin bush working as a pivot point. The pitch arms are separate to the blade grips, being held in place with a pair of bolts. These bolts do not have much meat to thread into on the grips, so it's really important to not over tighten them, and to use RED locktite on them. I also used red locktite on the pitch arm balls.

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A really useful tool in the assembly/disassembly of any head is a shaft gripping tool (cannot think of another name for it!!) It has an 8mm and a 10mm one way bearing in it, and you can slide it over your feathering shaft to hold it to undo or tighten one of the main blade grip bolts. Re those bolts, I make sure the internal thread is fully degreased, and RED locktite is used on the bolts.

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The Swash is a burly bit of kit, shared with the N5c E5 and E7se. In fact many of the parts are used across the Synergy range which keeps production costs down, and less spares for us and the shops to carry. The N7 shares the same tail gears as the E5 and N5c TT, and the front transmission is the same as the E5, only this boom is longer.

With the Swash, all you need to do is remove all the balls, and reinstall with thread lock, and for this my choice is Red.

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The pitch arms and servo to swash arms are of the conventional type rods, with a full turn of adjustment required for the ball link to face the right way. (180deg turn can be done by installing it onto the ball first from the 'inside' of the ball, and then installing the ball)

Seeing as I like my 'Bling' :smile: a company in the US makes Titanium turnbuckles for the Synergy range. I ordered 2 sets from them (both sets are marked for the E7 but the N7 uses the same length) for both my E7se and N7. These are really cool, already assembled onto the rods, and included is a square spanner for adjusting then. These make setup a breeze, because you can just turn them in the right direction to lengthen or shorten the arms. These are well worth the money in my mind, although not necessary if you don't want to spend out more.

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As with ALL Synergy ball links (and pretty much every other heli I've built) you WILL need a ball sizer to correctly size the links. This can be a bit tedious, but also a very good practise to do on any heli. Binding balls are not at all good for our machines :concern: especially on the tail push rods. All I do here is insert the sizer into the link, give it a few turns, pop it out, and mount the link on the relevant ball it will live on. if it's still tight, then go for a few more turns until it fits the ball nice and smooth without being loose. On final assembly of each ball, I use an ear bud with silicon spray on it to just wipe inside the link. This gets trapped between the ball and link helping it keep smooth and lubed.

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I now put the head to one side, but with the swash installed so that I can use a Swash leveller during setup of the controller be for the head is installed.

[Rctintin]

I like to get most of the radio gear and setup done before the boom goes in, just as it makes it easier to route the wires etc.

My choice of gear was once again the ubber reliable Futaba HV Servo's which have also shown to be remarkably efficient on power, but more of that later. I also chose to go with what I know best (I own 12 of them!!) and fit a full size V-Bar silverline with Pro installed. This also allows me to use the very good nitro gov in the V-bar set to Combined mode. This works a real treat. I used a Spektrum back plate sensor, using a very 'blingy' KDE alloy mount. This is set just a hair away from the bottom of the back plate of the motor.

A little tip I saw on a Mr Mel video that I always now use, is to use some pieces of Lego to set the sensor unit dead parallel to the frames. Luckily for me, my daughter have some Lego, so I 'borrowed' some of it!!

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I have stopped using servo wire brade, I just don't like it, so instead I use 'Loom tape'. This can be purchased off Ebay, and it's what is used on wiring looms in cars etc. I predominately use the 20mm wide one.

I do like to have onboard glow power for convenience, and as in my other nitro's, I went with the SwitchGlow Pro. I can then just flick a switch on my Tx, and have instant glow power. This fits nicely up inside the front frame under the electrics tray.

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I made up a custom power lead with a XT60 one end that plugs directly into my 2s Lipo, and using 3 pairs of 18awg silicon wires, I have power going twice into spare V-Bar sockets, and the third into my Futaba S-Bus Rx. This really is the most simple and robust method of powering the electrics on a HV setup.

I opted to mount the Rx directly ontop of the V-Bar because I am going to play with a bit of Telemetry on the N7, and this gives me easy access to Rx ports. (I now have a R7003SB Rx on the heli since these pics were taken)

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