Synergy N7, The 'BIG' build thread.

[Rctintin]

Hi guys, I'm back again with another full build thread, this time for the beautiful Synergy N7, the latest of a very well engineered line up of Rc Helicopters from the Botos Design and Distribution Company.

A massive thanks go to Ade and Roger at Climb Out, the official Synergy importers for getting my kit to me the following day after they hit the UK. Typical though for me, the build was slow because of my work commitments etc, but its done, its fantastic, and it flys amazingly well.

Also a quick thanks to Bud at QuickUk for getting me my OS105 HZ-R and Harori pipe for the build.



Right, first up all the parts come in their own sub assembly bags in a big box, in with another box with the very well shaped and designed canopy. All the sub assemblys came pre built, that way Synergy can be sure that there is a very high liklyhood that all the nuts, bolts, washers etc are all in the kit, and in their correct places. However, you MUST take apart every part, as there is NO thread lock on any part of this kit. I like this idea very much, because firstly your not hunting through a bag of screws for the correct size, and also your not second guessing if enough thread lock has been added during factory assembly.

When I build any kit, I have a small pot of Isopropyl Alcohol, 'Blue roll' paper towels and some ear buds. Every single thread, wether it's a nut, bolt, grub screw, blind thread (eg feathering shaft threads) get degreased before I add thread lock and assemble.

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The first job for me on any build I do, and infact the only part I dont like doing, is sanding every edge of every carbon part. For this I use a needle file, and sone 400 grit wet and dry paper. I do wear vinyl/latex gloves to do this, and try not to breath in the carbon dust, so a DIY dust mask is a good idea as well.

All the carbon parts were very well made, very few chips on the edges, unlike some other kits I have built in the last few years!!

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Ok, now the fun begins!! I did not build mine in the same order as in the very well presented assembly instructions, because I wanted to build the frame up first and see how it all looked. Re the assembly instructions, these are not provided with the kit, as is the way now with a few kits I have built. Instead, you can just down load the latest PDF assembly instructions from the Synergy web site, and build from your laptop or tablet device. The instructions are found here [URL]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/12820571/N7_Manual_v1.0.pdf[/URL]

First up is the Gyro mount plate, Rear frame brace, and Radio plate assembly. This exposed the first issue I had with my kit (which is obviously a first batch kit) The Rear frame brace had not been countersunk for its fixing bolts. No biggie, I just used a countersink bit in a cordless drill, and used one of the M2.5 bolts as a depth guide. Matt Botos is aware of this happening with a hand full of the first batch kits, so I'm prity sure future kits will not have this issue.

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Next up is the Main Boom Clamp assembly. Beautifully machined alloy, using Aircraft grade alloy (used throught the whole Synergy range) with no flappy bits left on!! Every part has strength built in, but kept to a minimum weight.

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Now I built up the Tail offset bell crank. Again, very light, but strong and well machined, and uses twin bearings. Blue thread lock was used on most of this build except for a few areas I will highlight.

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Next we have the Main Shaft bearing blocks. The bearings come already pressed into the blocks, and are in very tight. For this reason, I did not press them out and refit with bearing lockers, as they are held inplace by design. Just keep an eye on the assembly instructions as to which way up they should be, so the bearings dont drop out!!

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Now the frames can start to be built up, starting with the RH frame sides. Just a quick note here, I NEVER use thread locker on any frame bolt untill I have the assembled frame jigged up, main shaft in and square on a sheet of plate glass.

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The front corners of the frame are paired up for strength. Also worth a note here, the main frame is made up in 4 pieces (and a pair of front doublers) which really helps bring down crash costs. Now instead of having to replace an entire frame side, you may only have to buy one of the 4 bits to repair the frame.

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Now the frame is starting to take shape...

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On with the LH front side now, again all bolts degreased, and loosly snugged up to hold everything in place.

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[Rctintin]

Now you have to move onto the Front Tail Transmission assembly. This is a beautiful little unit, with very well meshed gears, and very torsionally stiff assembly.

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This assembly, like all the others has to be stripped down and rebuilt using thread lock. I did one half at a time so I could refer to the other side for the positions of the mounting posts.

One very important part of this assembly not to miss, is the long set screw that goes into the centre shaft. This set screw is used to hold in place the roll pin that is used to drive the bevel gear. If this pin comes out, you loose your tail drive!! I used a small drop of Red thread lock on this, before adding the bottom locknut.

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This is a good way of tightening the spacer bars down onto the inner set screws. Once the spacer is tight, I used the circular part in a pair of ball link plyers to hold the spacer while i used a small spanner to release the nylock.

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This whole assembly can now be bolted to the RH frame, and then the rear LH frame can now go on.

Now the basic frame is built up, you can add the motor mounts. These are handed, and are clearly marked. There are two pairs of motor lug bolt holes, because this Heli has been designed to accept a wide range of power plants ranging from 90-105 nitro, and the OS GT15 Gas motor (Petrol to us in the UK!!) I do know there are some who have installed the YS120, but this motor was not tested in this airframe by Matt himself.

[electricsceadu]

you have a faulty non-oe part
please sort this problem out


you need a n7 build towel

:rofl:


the n7 is looking good

[Rctintin]

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Up next is the Clutch assembly. This is like a work of art!! Very well machined, and beefy. This once again needs to be fully stripped down and rebuilt.

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The Clutch liner already comes glued in and finnished off.

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Inside the top started bearing cup, there is a nut to hold the Helical pinion in its bearing holder. I chose to use Red thread locker on this, and also on the thread that screws the Clutch Bell to the pinion with. You realy dont want those parts comming undone in flight!!

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[Rctintin]

[QUOTE=electricsceadu;1104396]you have a faulty non-oe part
please sort this problem out


you need a n7 build towel

:rofl:


the n7 is looking good[/QUOTE]

LOL, I have a Synergy one, but its Navy Blue, so to dark to photo against!!

[Rctintin]

Now its time to look at the Engine. My choice for this is the OS105HZ-R matched to a Hatori 105FS-3D pipe. This is my first 'big' OS, and i have previously used, and still use YS motors, but getting spares is becomming a real problem now.

The Fan hub is the modern pinch bolt type, where its a fairly tight fit on the crank, and you use the crank nut to pull it into place. Once it was seated, I used my dial gauge to check for runout, and it was perfectly round. Now the pinch bolts can be nipped up. The instructions noted that no thread lock is required on these, but I did use a small drop of Blue on them anyway, just to be sure!!

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Now the plastic fan can be added. Careful here to not over tighten the 4 fixing bolts, because you will distort the fan, and cause inbalance.

The Clutch shoe is very burly and tough looking. First thing here to do is to wash out all the grease from the one way starter roller bearing. I used aerasol brake cleaner for this. Now Oil the bearing with light oil such as Triflow. The reason for doing this is so that the rollers can move freely inside their cage and not stick in the grease.

Now I mounted the Clutch to the hub, and just nipped up the fixing bolts without thread lock. Again I checked the runout with a dial gauge, and the Clutch was not as centered as I would like. I took the 2 bolts out, span the clutch around 180deg, and re nipped in place. Checked again, and this time the runout was just .002mm! Thats close enough for me!! (With the engine ticking over, this heli is almost viabration free, as is my Synergy N5c and T-Rex 700n, each one had the clutch installed like this)

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Now its time to fit the Fan shroud. Because this Heli has been designed for various motors, some trimming will be required to get this to fit around your chosed motor. For me, I had to remove plastic to fit around the nice big bell mouth on the OS carb, and also either side of the Cylinder head. This was done with both a sanding drum on my trusty Dremel, and an Exacto knife. Just take a bit off at a time, mark and retrim untill its fits without rubbing against the engine.

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[Rctintin]

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Now I bolted the motor and fan shroud into place. A really cool design here, because if you need to remove just your motor, you only need to remove 8 bolts holding the undercarage and bottom plate in place, followed by the 4 motor lug bolts, and the fan shroud bolts, and the whole assembly will drop out from the bottom of the frame.

It's now time to check that the frames are square and upright. To do this, first drip your mainshaft through all 3 bearings. This should be a slide through fit, not having to use any force. If it is tight, loosed the fixing bolts on all the bearing blocks, so the main shaft lines them up as it goes through.

I now use my trusty sheet of 6mm plate glass to sit the frames on. Using a set square, hold it up against the frame side, and look to see if its at 90 to the glass. Mine was spot on, but if yours is not, slacken all the frame bolts, and gently twist the frame to bring it upright. Now nip a few 'main' bolts up on the corners of the bearing blocks etc to hold it there. I now methodically go around evey frame bolt and use a drip of Blue thread loch on every one. I do this in opposite corners, so you are keeping tension to the squaired frame, so when all the bolts are done, everything should be nice and square, and the main shaft can slide up and down through the bearings.

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Next thing I built up was the Main gear and Auto gear. This is a solid machined main gear from Delrin (I believe) not a moulded gear. The advantage to this is that it is super accurate, strong and very smooth. The down side is the cost to replace it, but this kind of quality does not come cheap. I'd choose this over a moulded gear any day.

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Time now to strip the Auto hub and its bronze bearings. Once again, just like the Starter one way, this one way bearing needs to have its grease washed out, and light oil put back in. The Bronze bushings have to held into the Auto hub with Red locktite. I have a 1 ton press here, so I used that to push the bush in dead square, and to make sure it was fully seated. This is the only part of this heli (and my Synergy E7se) that I dont like. I would prefer the use of a roller bearing either side of the oneway like on the ungraded Goblin 700/770 hub. Matt has assured me that there is no need for this, and in the hundreds and hundreds of flights both the E7 and N7 have had in pre production testing, the bronze bushing has neither worn or been a cause for concern.

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I partially installed each bush, and then ran a bead of Red locktite around it before pressing it home. This way, you will not get any Red into the roller bearing behind it.

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Now bilt the main gear to the Auto hub. This uses 6 button headed bolts, but be careful not to over tighten them as you can cause the hole in the main gear to crack around the head of the bolt.

The Auto gear is again machined from solid, and is fixed to its hub by countersunk bolts. Again, dont over tighten these bolts.

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This whole assembly can now be slid into the frame, and slot the main shaft down through the Auto hub sleeve. There is an optional shim to be installed just above the bottom bearing if you have any up/down movement of the main shaft once your bottom Jesus bolt is in place. Mine did need this, and now there is no play, but not so tight it pre loads the bearings.

With reference to the bottom Jesus bolt, and the 'special' bolt that goes through the Auto hub/sleeve/main shaft (and the main head block Jesus bolt), these use M3 Nylocks to hold them in place. DO NOT over tighten these bolts!! A couple of guys on the Synergy forum have had theirs snap in flight!! Matt Botos put out an advisery about this, and again warned people about over tightening thus over stressing these bolts. The load on them is in shear, with a turning force, they will not cope with a tension force caused by tightening them to much.

Once the main gear is in place, you can now move the Front Tail Transmission assembly fully forward for the correct mesh onto the Auto gear. There is not much movement here, but its designed in so that you can buy a 12 tooth spur gear to slow down the tail speed for bigger tail blades. 12T = 4.5:1 tail, and the std 11T gear = 4.9:1 ratio.

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[Rctintin]

Now it was time to fit the Clutch stack into the frame. This is where my biggest hurdle in this build came in. The Main gear mesh is fixed, but the clutch stack can slide for and aft. What I did was to sit the Clutch bell right down ontop of the Clutch shoe. This held the whole Clutch stack perfectly upright. This would have been fine but my mesh was to tight. If I pulled the stack forwards, the mesh would be correct, but now the stack is not upright or square with the motor. This in turn meant the starter shaft was not square in the clutch oneway either. No way was I going to build it like that, so the only option was to shim the engine away from its chassis mounts. I loosened off the motor mounting bolts, and slid between the lugs and frame mounts some .5mm main shaft washers I have in my spares box. This worked perfectly allowing the Clutch stack to sit on the clutch shoe perfectly upright with the correct gear mesh. Once I lifted the stack up to its mounting position and nipped up the fixing bolts, it was perfectly in line, with a perfect mesh.
Now then, where do I get motor shims from?!! I posted this problem/question on the Synergy forum, and got a reply back fairly swiftly suggesting to search around for Synergy N9 lug spacers. A quick phone call to Ady at Climb Out resulted in a pair of .5mm shims going out in the post that day for me. To save removing my motor bolts completely, I decided to slot these shims so I could just slide them into place around the bolts.

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It would seem that some kits are getting a good mesh with no shims while some are needing to shim. This is even with the same motor type. Therefor it would be a suggestion of mine to Matt to include a pair or 2 of shims in each kit like there is in the N5c.

The clutch stack mount bolts have a nice strong outer plate for the retaining bolts to go through and sandwich the carbon frame sides. These will not be moving in flight!!

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[Rctintin]

Now that the main frame, motor, main gear etc was all complete, I thought it would be a good time to start adding the servos etc before there was a big boom on there getting in the way!!

Some nice little triangle shaped servo mounting lugs are included in the kit, giving a good thread for the servos to seat against.

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The kit comes with its own Carbon 20mm servo arms (as does the E7se) These are designed for the Futaba small round wheel type servo disc, using 4 bolts to hold them to the disc, and a beefy 5.5mm ball on the end. I like these arms alot because they have high rigidity in the vertical plane but in the event of a crash, the arm should break saving your servo gears.

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In order to make them up, I selected which side I was making, centered a servo on my servo tester, and moved the wheel around on the splines untill I got the nearest position for the disc holes to be square with the servo, so the arm could be bolted to the disc at 90deg to that.

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[URL=http://s1008.photobucket.com/user/Rctintin/media/253_zps6697d50b.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af210/Rctintin/253_zps6697d50b.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[Rich23]

Amazing build. The kit looks high quality too.

Rich


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[George J]

Rob

Fantastic thread, especially as the N7 will be coming my way soon. Although there is two local machines to me, thanks to Maj, I've already seen one flying a few times, it's good to see the build in such detail with such clear pics. No doubt it's a seriously nice quality heli and so simple. :)

[Rctintin]

Cheers, there's lots more to come, but my eyes were shutting at gone 2am last night!!

[Jamin_00]

I like the amount of bling :)

Shame its a nitro ;)


Looking good Rob I have to say.

[Rctintin]

Ben, after this thread is finished, I have the E7se to post up, that will be right up your street mate!!

[ROSSCO]

Awesome build thread Rob, Nice Job!! Two Thumbs up!! :D