Trex 450 pitch settings

[mgjackson]

I've got my 450 set up as per the manual, ie Normal -2,5,10, FM1 -6,5,10 and FM2 -10,0,10

I'm reasonbly happy with this set up, however the disadvantage is that battery life is relativly poor in normal mode, there's a noticable jump when flicking between FM1 and 2 and perhaps worse is that I tend not to put it into FM2 at all...seems to be a disincentive to go all the way into 3D mode when I can safley stick to FM1.

So I'm thinking
Normal: -2,5,10 - Poor battery life, but ok for in garden post rebuild testing
FM1: -2,0,10 - This would become normal mode
FM2: -10,0,10 - This becomes my only flight mode, so I can't wimp out anymore.

Does this seem a plan, or am I being a numpty?

Thanks
Matthew

[Mart61]

I'm no 3D flyer but I'm struggling with why the normal mode would be anything other than 0 at mid stick, especially as the other two modes are. This setting could cause problems actually during the flick to FM1 or 2, no matter how quick you do it.

I have -2, 0, +10 on all my flight modes at present but think you plan to move this setting to your normal setting, with -10, 0, +10 would be good for idle up settings.

Also, what are the corresponding throttle curves for these three settings?

[Weebl]

I am a complete newbie but run normal mode as -2/0/10 and idle up as -10/0/10

I set normal up with the same pitch curve from mid stick upwards and just chopped off the lower part to stop me chopping the throttle by instinct in the even of an impending crash and throwing the heli at the floor with massive negative pitch.

I wanted to learn to hover with the stick in the same position as it would be later when I can actually start throwing it around (or even gentle manoeuvring) I did not want pitch to change when I went into idle up so the Heli did not bob around like a looney as I try to find the new hover point.

Just my opinion and may even be completely useless as I have not even been in idle up yet, still hovering.

[coptermanic]

We need to see the corresponding T curves, and 5 degrees of pitch mid stick is an awful lot; lots of induced drag at that angle, generating higher than normal torque at the motor.
On a 450, you are generally better with the lift being produced by higher rotorhead speeds and lower blade angles.

[mgjackson]

>Also, what are the corresponding throttle curves for these three settings?
Thats what I'm not to sure on,
I guess:
Normal 0, 70, 100 (Current setting)
FM1: 0, 80, 100
FM2, 90, 80, 100 (Current setting)

[Mart61]

>Also, what are the corresponding throttle curves for these three settings?
Thats what I'm not to sure on,
I guess:
Normal 0, 70, 100
FM1: 0, 80, 100
FM2, 90, 80, 100

OK - with 5 degrees pitch and 70% throttle at mid stick, you are just about on the hover point at mid stick. However, when you flick to FM1 your head speed will be higher but you'll have no pitch. As such you won't be at the hover point until about two-thirds throttle. Thus flicking into FM1 from normal will cause the heli to drop unless you rapidly increase the throttle.

FM2 looks to be a variation on the classic 3D V curve so that should be ok(?) if running -10, 0, +10 pitch curves.

[mgjackson]

I'm thinking that I wouldn't actually go from Norm to FM1 while flying in this setting - I'd use Normal mode (for say) nose in hover practice where if it all went horribly wrong at least the model wouldnt be hitting the deck at full throttle.

I'd use FM1 as my 'Normal' mode for take off and FM2 for flying - as I would do if I didn't have the luxury of a transmitter with multiple flight modes.

Is why I'm asking if I'm being a numpty and doing something non-standard :-)

[Mart61]

What Tx are you using?

[mgjackson]

Jr x3810

[Mart61]

Ah - not familiar with that radio I'm afraid.

[mgjackson]

'Tis very nice - bought it years ago when I was into flying planes, so its relativly elderly, but knows what CCPM is.

Whats possibly thown me a curve ball is that in normal mode it has a couple of mixers that allow the pitch and throttle curves to be adjusted - useful for a quick fix if the helis nodding abit while hovering. However, the pitch curve adjust only works if there's a curve to adjust, ie -2,5,10, but a flatter curve ie, -2,0,10 doesn't do very much. Made me think, perhaps erroneously, that if someone has gone to the effort of programming that into the transmitter then having the pitch curve not set up to take advantage of it was not the right way to go.

[jamiem]

Always run mid stick the same in all flight modes, that way if/when you switch modes you won't have any sudden jumps in model position. I'm also at a bit of a loss why you would want to practice with 5 degrees at mid stick then actually fly around With 0 at mid, totally changing the feel of the model. If your worried about high headspeed when you crash, then get used to hitting hold very quickly!

[sacko]

Get into idle up!

Sure you said you were looping the Sport now, if so, doing it normal mode isnt making it easy for yourself.

[mgjackson]

I think I've kind of gone back a step....early Autumn and I was looping and holding it inverted and had several weeks of the model seeming to be uncrashable.

Then I got too cocky and binned it, then I had the drive gear disengage and then had an issue with the DSM module comming loose. So thats 3 harsh crashes and suddenly I'm not hitting the idle 2 switch anymore.

Having it set up per the book is ok - how the model ramps up as you switch between normal and then to idle 1, then idle 2 is impressive but it does put a psychological barrier up.

So looking to address that by setting the model up differently. And really the question is, is it worth effectivly creating two Normal modes that have quite different characterisitics. I guess the answer is probably no :-)

[sacko]

I personally wouldnt consider it, but you are flying it and if you find it of some use, then do it.

Or just start using idle up again, but dont push yourself as much, take it easy.