Another Noob looking for a local mentor - Cheddar. Somerset

[raptorrobbie]

Hi everyone,

After debating for at least three days after some initial research on the net, I am expecting my Raptor V2 30 and JR2610 to be delivered tomorrow.
(From ultimatehelicopters.com, a very reasonable starter deal with practically everything I will need and very helpful (and understanding) over the phone!)

Feeling like a 5 year old on Christmas Eve!

If there is a potential mentor who would be prepared to give this zummerzet noobie the help and set up / trim assistance I will desperately need I would be most grateful to hear from you!!

I may well buy the beer!

[Stuart]

Hi firstly welcome to the site, I hope you'll find it really helpful.....

Have you checked out where your nearest club is via the BMFA wesbite yet ?

http://www.bmfa.org/clubs/clist.php

[raptorrobbie]

I had a look at the websites of the local clubs - they all seem to have very high memberships - not sure how flying time is allocated - and I think I'm gonna need plenty of practice!

A neighbour has offered the use of a field away from prying eyes where I can practice, practice, practice when the weather is suitable!

Meanwhile I continue to hover all over the shop on FMS using the Tx that came with a dragonfly electric that has servo's with a mind of their own and my girlfriend will not let me fly in the house any more!

[Raptorite]

Hi,

I am fairly close to you in Trowbridge, so give me a PM if I can be of any assistance.

I am actually in the middle of changing clubs at the moment, so due to the weather havent managed to fly at the new field yet.

When the weather gets better I am more than happy to nip down and fly with you on your field, providing you have the necessary BMFA membership and insurance.

Cheers,

Pete.

[raptorrobbie]

The Raptor arrived today - now installing the radio gear etc.

Programming the radio looks like its going to be fun!

Thanks for the reply Pete, going to send off the cheque to the BMFA tomorrow didn't realise membership comes with insurance, thanks for pointing me in the right direction!

Your offer of help will be greatly appreciated.

Will drop you my details in a PM when I have got the build finished, bought some fuel and got my nerve up!

A couple of bone questions:

Which fuel does anyone recommend?
Do I need a remote glow plug adaptor and a header tank?

If I ever get the finikerty little screws into the servo arms I will be a happy man!

Cheers,

Rob.

[Raptorite]

Hi Rob,

I would suggest that a remote glow adapter is a very good idea, as it means you dont need to go through the hassle of removing the canopy every time you want to start the model. It just makes life much easier at the field. particularly as those rubber grommets have a tendancy to break in two after a a while when the canopy is repeatedly removed and put back on.

In terms of fuel, there is quite a variety available, Coolpower, Model Technics, Wildcat and Magnum to name but a few. Your best bet is to find a local model shop and see what they keep in stock. Providing the nitro content is somewhere in the middle of the range, say 10 to 20% you will be fine. If you can help it, try not to change brand too often, as different brands have different blends of lubricants etc. therefore mixtures of different ones can cause problematic engine runs and inconsistencies.

Cheers,

Pete.

[Dedcalm]

I would suggest you use a fully synthetic oil based fuel fo 10% to start with. Cool Power, Magnum and Wildcat are all fully synthetic. The problem with caster based fuel even when in low % e.g. Contest 10 is that the caster will burn onto anything hot (engine, manifold, exhaust) and turn it black very quickly.

Good luck with the maiden flight

Rob

[mo]

Hi Rob.
Your recommendation of a fully synthetic fuel owing to the fact that staining is a problem with the castor based ones is very interesting.
I have always used a 50-50 mix of castor and synthetic, and must tell you that I have never had the problem you speak of.
The cause of staining can be attributed in all cases to bad sealing of the motor (plug, head, manifold ect), should you make sure there is no leakage from any of these points, it will follow that unless you spill fuel over your motor when filling the tank, you should not be troubled by the castor carbonising on the exterior of your engine.
I have on occasions tried fully synthetic, and found them to be very sensitive in the tuning department, if you happen to make the mistake of leaning your new motor out a little more than intended, you could then suffer a premature failure of piston and liner, owing to the fine line lubrication qualities of the synthetic lubricant.
If you are new to the hobby, I beleive to be on the safe side you should always stick to at least a part castor mix, should any mistakes be made in the tuning of your engine, you will at least be afforded of some protection from the best natural lubricant around.
WHO CARES HOW THE OUTSIDE LOOKS, IT IS THE INSIDE THAT MATTERS.
GOOD FLYING.
Mo.

[Dedcalm]

I think some of the problem is the caster that is in exhaust gases. This turns you silencer brown which although is not a "problem" it does spoil the look of a nice polished ali silencer.
There was an interesting magazine article recently where an rcv 4 stroke was tested for a season with fully synth and after the season the parts were checked. No apparant wear at all!
I have had no problems with tuning my engines using either caster, semi or fully synth fuels to be honest.
You pays your money and takes your choice though at the end of the day As long as it works

[raptorrobbie]

Thanks for the responses guys!

Unfortunately while the debate was raging, I had taken myself into Weston-Super-Mare and paid a visit to the model shop.

I picked up some bits and pieces and was sold some Model Technics Supaglow fuel, which has only 5% Nitro. :roll: Will this be adequate? Pete suggests I need a minimum of 10%?

The build is pretty complete now. Having a few problems with the collective servo travel, I have managed full range - but only with the 'Travel Adjust' at 150% in both directions! :? Also when the (built in) pitch gauge is showing 0 degrees pitch the blades seem to have pitch - and its not equall. The Raptor was ARTF but I guess I need to do some adjustment to the control rods? 8O

Finally can someone point me in the direction of a photo showing how and where to install the remote glow plug adaptor, and how to mount and connect in a 2 oz header tank?

Many thanks in advance!

Robbie.

[G-DAVE]

Hi raptorrobbie
Saw this posting from Jan15th. had no response so thought what the hell.
1st The fuel choice is a personal thing but 10% nitro is a minimum particularly on Japanese engines - it makes them easier to adjust. The only other question I would ask is check weather the fuel you got has any castor oil in . A small percentage say 2% is probably okay but any more I personally don't like as it can gum up engines and make a mess by leaving a sticky residue all over the mechanics. If your local model shop can supply Magnum or Cool Power these have only synthetic oils in them and keep the engines and exhausts pretty clean.

2nd. Your pitch travel problem could easily by sorted by using a longer output disc on the pitch servo which will give you more travel , then you can dial some of the Travel Adjust out again .

The remote glow plug can be fitted anywhere where it's conveinient so you can connect your glow plug driver to easily.
The header tank - again the points to consider are - it should be positioned as near as possible at the same height as the Carb. and not to far away. The plumbing is easy take a pipe from the main tank clunck to your header vent nipple -- and fit another pipe from the header cluck nipple to the engine .

Dave 8)