Swash plate levelling

[sargan]

I'm underway on my X50 build. (my first Heli)

Seen mention of using a Swashplate levelling tool - and links such as this to making one:
http://www.rchelisite.com/how_to_bui...eling_tool.php

When do you actually use such a tool ? .... been looking through the build manual, can't find any point in the build when I should use a Swashplate levelling tool.

BTW ... are the home made ones worthwhile making ? at least it can be slipped onto shaft without removing the rotor head.

[Lui]

Use swashplate self level tool if needed when setting up head after Heli is built

[adieuk]

first thing check that your servo's are at 90
then use the swash level tool
and also make sure you have no sub trim in your tx

[R1stu]

1. Make sure all servos are 90 degrees
2. set 50% stick (0 pitch)
3. Stick level tool on shaft
4. Look at the swash arms where the links attach. if there is a gap remove ball link adjust until all 3 are touching.
5. move full collective are they still all touching? if not, use travel adjustment to bring them all in line.

[steve_b]

I picked up one of these a couple of weeks back Fast Lad Performance

It's a bit pricey but I've got a 450, 600 and 2 90 size machines, this fits all sizes and swash arrangements. If I bought a swash leveller for each heli then it'd end up costing more than this.

[sargan]

Use swashplate self level tool if needed when setting up head after Heli is built

Anybody give me a clue how I use one of these, what I am/should be adjusting to get swash level ?

[steve_b]

Generally you take the head off the heli, so during the build process, get the CCPM bellcrank at 90 degrees at mid stick, then slide the swash leveller down the main shaft so that the 3 'legs' of the leveller touch the 3 points on the swash plate. Then you need to adjust each pushrod from the CCPM bellcrank to swashplate so that the swashplate points touch the 'legs' of the swash leveller.

When you have a swash leveller it'll make more sense when it's on the heli, and I'm not too good at explaining it

Just realised, if you look at the link I posted in my previous post it shows the swash leveller on a heli, which should give you an idea of how it's used.

[Brian Gifford]

Have a look at Helifreak, Finless Bob videos. specifically CCPM setup parts 1 and 2.

Heli Skills and Setup 101 - LOOK here first! - HeliFreak

[Eckchaz]

Generally you take the head off the heli, so during the build process, get the CCPM bellcrank at 90 degrees at mid stick, then slide the swash leveller down the main shaft so that the 3 'legs' of the leveller touch the 3 points on the swash plate. Then you need to adjust each pushrod from the CCPM bellcrank to swashplate so that the swashplate points touch the 'legs' of the swash leveller.

Just my opinion ... dont adjust the pushrods, keep them even lengths as per manual (as you may get uneven throws, if one link is longer than the other!) but use subtrim to get all servos the same and swash level at 0 pitch.. then check full +/- pitch and measure again.. just because the swash is level at 0 pitch does not mean the servo's throw the same at max pitch extremes. If it doesnt, then use EP to correct it

I use these Fast Lad Performance and have one for every heli I have but you can get Universal ones like Steve_b's posted

[ModelGuard.Com]

You can use expensive gadgetry that require the head to be removed or you just use this slightly cheaper method. Works perfectly and if you use some common sense actually worksout more accurate. I use it on all my helis including my tdr Rigid. The method i use is to place a tiny piece of tape downwards from the end of the tie making it easier to see the gap
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iUAluAxRi4Q"]YouTube - Swash plate leveling using a zip tie 450 helicopter[/ame]

[Mark_T]

Most of this is generic, but I'll try to refer to specific features of the X50 as well where they will help.

Connect up all the cyclic servos to the receiver and set the pitch curve for idle-up 1 to 50% at all points, leave normal mode to a straight line 0-25-50-75-100

This way you can select ilde-up 1 and know that where ever the thorttle stick is, the head should be at 0 degrees. You can switch back to normal mode to check travel throughout the range.

Set all trims and sub-trims to 0. In an ideal world they will remain at 0.

Do not under any circumstances alter one of each pair of push rods, they should remain identical in length, if you are feeling the need to alter one of them it is mostly likely that you have the servo horn in the wrong place on the servo.

Measure the distance between the balls on the bellcranks, this is the distance you want the balls to be apart on the servo horn so select a horn that has holes at the right distance.

Now you need to find the position for the horn on the servo that puts the bellcrank at the right angle when the pushrods are connected. This will be when you can draw a straight horizontal line between the pivot of the bellcrank and the ball that connects the pushrod to the swash. You'll not that puts the balls that connect the bellcrank to the servo at an angle, match that angle with the servo horn while the servo is locked on the idel-up 1 curve and you've achieved the objective.

If the horn does not put the holes in the right place then rotate it until you find the position that is closest as the position will chnage slightly as you rotate the horn to each possible position. 'if you connect the pushrods to the bell crank then it is easy to see when you have this right as the holes for the balls on the servo end of the rods will line up exactly over the holes in the servo arms.

Spend time getting this right and the rest gets a lot easier.

The pitch and aileron are easy to set up as the bellcranks are clearly visible and as long as you got the right crank on the right side of the model (they are labelled) then there is nothing you can do wrong.

The elevator crank is a little different as you had to assemble that earlier in the build and there is the possibility that you might not have got it so the height of the connection to the swash is exactly right. If it is close (and it should be) then you may have to make a small adjustment to the subtrim to get the swash level at zero. Still use the same method to get the servo horn in the right place to begin with though.

[Brian Gifford]

You can use expensive gadgetry that require the head to be removed or you just use this slightly cheaper method. Works perfectly and if you use some common sense actually worksout more accurate. I use it on all my helis including my tdr Rigid. The method i use is to place a tiny piece of tape downwards from the end of the tie making it easier to see the gap
YouTube - Swash plate leveling using a zip tie 450 helicopter

More accurate? So, are you saying with a cable tie you can go from full -ve to full +ve pitch, and check that the swash stays completely level at every point??

[Sao]

I have a few swash leveling tools but I have always used the Mk1 eyeball initially.
I have checked a few of my set ups with the appropriate tool afterwards and only a couple needed very minor changes.

[ModelGuard.Com]

More accurate? So, are you saying with a cable tie you can go from full -ve to full +ve pitch, and check that the swash stays completely level at every point??

Yes in theory you could but it would take some time, I was forgetting ccpm interactions as i am all flybarless and only need to check at zero, full and full neg.

[Brian Gifford]

I have a few swash leveling tools but I have always used the Mk1 eyeball initially.
I have checked a few of my set ups with the appropriate tool afterwards and only a couple needed very minor changes.

I envy people with the ability to do that. Unfortunately, I can't, and so I am meticulous about my setup. Shame about the flying, though!