Twister CP V2 needs new main blades

[pauleden]

Thanks to the guys at Skyline for helping me through the very early stages!

Anyhow, I've had the machine skittering around the floor, and had a go at getting the trim set. I have two things I'd like to run past the panel.

As I said, I can skip around the floor fairly well, but as soon as I get enough power on to really get airborne, it rolls onto it's right side. I thought I had the roll cyclic trim set up right becuase it's "on ground" performace is quite good, but like I say, as soon as I go for more power, even gently, she gets an inch or two of air and rolls right. If I'm quick, I can gather it back with some left on the roll cyclic, but I was hoping to get this under control with trim. Am I doing something wrong here?

As a result, both main blades are significantly shorter than originally, so I'm going to get a couple of spare sets. What's best? 100% carbon/Wood/Polystyere+CF?
Would these be suitable?
http://www.modelshopleeds.co.uk/cata...6fa99665e24020

Thanks in advance,

Paul

[pauleden]

Follow up question,
If I'm getting spares, what else should I be getting in advance?

[amnesia]

Hi Paul,

I have the Twister CP v2.

The heli should be a lot more stable once you get past the ground effect - try hovering around waist height and things should be easier (just remember it's a bigger drop to the ground !)

As for blades - I must be lucky as I am still on my first set - the carbon blades that came with the model. I have, however, managed to get through a few spares.

I would get -

tail boom - no need to pay £4.50 for the real thing, just get a huge length of carbon tube from your model shop for a fiver and make 5 or 6 spares from it.

tail rotor blades - these tend to take abuse if you land tail first (if you don't manage to break the boom in the process).

Main rotor shaft and sleeve tends to get bent with a 'proper' crash :-p


I would also advise getting the twin tail rotor conversion (www.buzzflyer.co.uk) as it makes the tail SOOO much more stable, and the motors will last a lot longer too.

This is my first heli, and I am by no means an expert - I am only a few flight hours ahead of you by the sound of things - but feel free to give me a PM if you have more questions about this heli

Daniel.

[pauleden]

I'm just off to get some more blades now. Skyline say they have some stronger ones and I'll get two sets. Ever the pessimist, me!
I think a new tail rotor is in order, I can see me flying backwards into stuff.
If it wasn't so damn windy here I'd be out trying to catch up those couple of hours I'm behind!

[pauleden]

OK. New blades installed, but I didn't tighten them up enough. During a "landing" the blade folded and impacted part of the rotor head. Now, one of the balancing paddles is tilted as if the cyclic is going nose down. Also, the main shaft is no longer true.
I'm not sure I should be replacing it on my own. I might have the guys and gals at the shop do it for me.

[pauleden]

I would also advise getting the twin tail rotor conversion (www.buzzflyer.co.uk) as it makes the tail SOOO much more stable, and the motors will last a lot longer too.

Honey Bee CP2 = Twister CP V2?

[danb]

Its very similar isnt it. I think that all Twisters and honey bees are the same to be honest.

[gazza]

Its very similar isnt it. I think that all Twisters and honey bees are the same to be honest.

They are pretty much mate yeah, just rebadged with different names and distributers- ie..J.perkins, E-sky etc.

As far as I know the Hummingbird CP2, Blade CP, and Twister CP2 are essentially the same item. The Twister CPV2 has the bell-hiller mixing head.







Gazza

[Skydiver]

Hi Paul,

The best thing to do is have a go at replacing bits on your own. This will make you more aware of what is going on and give you a better understanding of the Heli. If you get stuck the Guys on the forum or at the shop will help.

As to trimming the heli on the ground it is not a great thing to do. It is best to trim it once in the hover. Of course this is hard to do as a new pilot but ask a compitant flyer or shop to do ti for you.

The best thing to do is make sure the swash is level by eye when all powered up any other triming with a twister is best done in the air.

Dave

[pauleden]

Dave,
Skyline are doing the honours this morning because I don't have the tools or the time but I do intend doing most of this stuff myself. As I said in another thread, helicopters, real, modelled and simulated have always held a fascination for me and I do understand the mechanics of what makes them work so I'd like to think the rotor head is at least partially familiar to me.
I will ask the guys at the shop if the will trim it for me.
Thanks for your help.

Paul

[dazzee]

As a beginer i have both the twister and humingbird ........the twister gets my vote........stronger and more responsive...

Blades...... i have tried both carbon and woodies.......given my limited experiance the only differance is on my pocket........go for the woodies

[pauleden]

In the event, Danny @ Skyline got me to do some of the work changing the main shaft on the grounds "you need to learn sometime". He's right, of course and he metaphorically held my hand during the operation.
The 'easy bit' - getting the old shaft out through the bearings and swash plate - took ages as the shaft was very bent and the shaft had burrs on it where the bearing grub screw touched it and where the top pin goes through the centre hub.
The 'hard part', getting the pin back through the centre hub and new, straight main shaft took seconds, with it going in on the first attempt.
He also gave it a little spin in the shop and said it "handled as expected". It seems the CP is a little twitchy so it looks like I've got a long tough road ahead of me. When the weather clears up, I'l get back out there and press on.
Paul