ESC Placement

**Cuppa** · 16-03-2012, 06:44 PM

Originally Posted by Eckchaz

I'll be more worried about those zip ties holding the ESC on yours Cuppa

.. Robbe aint going to warrant that return if it fails

On mine.. I have added two loose ties (for extra safety) to keep the wires away from the pinion

The cable ties are only the soft type and only just nipped up for security x2 small srips of d/s tape behined, imo under the front like i said not the best place imo. see how it goes in the summer? all i know is tight airspace= more heat+the lipo on top, straps ect.

cheers
Cuppa

**Eckchaz** · 16-03-2012, 07:22 PM

Didnt know John.. Its just your picture it looks like its cranked down. I am warey of it being there like you, thus my original comment of wanting to move it.. however loads of users have the esc there and are running trouble free.. even in the US heat

I used to have the esc on my old ESP on the side but im so anal with wiring & placement in general & especially on the EFL, I want to keep it hidden.. the only other place is literatly between the frames for me but i'll have to crack open the 7200bx (which is reserved for the Fusion) to allow the extra space (and the 7200 has to stay on the middle tray too!)

**Andy from Sandy** · 16-03-2012, 07:26 PM

With regard to heat coolice recommends that ungoverned the throttle curve needs to be above 80%.

I found out the other day whilst using the v-bar governor that a 2600 headspeed caused the esc to get quite warm. I increased the headspeed to 2700 and now the esc is running much much cooler.

**Eckchaz** · 16-03-2012, 07:56 PM

Originally Posted by Andy from Sandy

With regard to heat coolice recommends that ungoverned the throttle curve needs to be above 80%.

I found out the other day whilst using the v-bar governor that a 2600 headspeed caused the esc to get quite warm. I increased the headspeed to 2700 and now the esc is running much much cooler.

I think Evo Andy found the same mate.. his was something like 2600 and it was very warm but since upping it to 2800 it was cold

**GIXERMAN** · 16-03-2012, 09:03 PM

A big welldone to shaggy rs6!!! he has managed to fit his esc all on his own woop woop

**ShaggyRS6** · 16-03-2012, 10:44 PM

I big thanks to Gixerman for forcing me to do it. Since I have spoken to you I have messed the same battery up 4 times. Keep soldering the wrong end on

Getting good at soldering though :P

**ShaggyRS6** · 16-03-2012, 11:36 PM

Woot, all tested. Thanks for everyone's help. I now have slow start on my 500

Idle up here we come :P

**Cuppa** · 17-03-2012, 12:51 AM

I'll be more worried about those zip ties holding the ESC on yours Cuppa

.. Robbe aint going to warrant that return if it fails

your having a laugh, standerd answer from Robbe will be youve flown it, btbf if its a genuine fault then i'm sure it woud be sorted.

**Gixxer** · 17-03-2012, 01:48 AM

Just a quick question... Has anyone measured the temperature of the heat sinks on their ESCs after a heavy run? The reason I ask is because unless it's reaching temperatures over 80 degrees, I wouldn't be too worried about it. Obviously, the lower the temperature, the lower the resistance in the circuit, but unless you're flying in competition, this shouldn't really be a factor (assuming the unit isn't overheating)

I'm actually a bit anal about temperatures because I build high-end PCs, and keeping temperatures as low as possible, whilst making the PC perform as fast as possible, is always my ultimate goal, and it's for this reason that I mount any ESC/BEC etc on the outside of the airframe, but in reality, unless the heat sink is pretty hot to the touch after a heavy flight, it's safe to assume that it's OK where it is, but as stated previously, where electronics and current flow are concerned, colder is better.