Thread: Synergy E6/7 Tips & Tricks

Topic: Building the Tail Box

Specifically the tail box flange bearings. Due to normal machining tolerances, the tail box flange bearings are either a press fit which will required an arbor press to install or they are an interference fit which you can just press in with your thumb. If the flange bearings require an arbor press to install you do not need to glue the bearings into place. If the flange bearings are easily installed/removed you will need to use thin CA to create a press fit. In order to do this, simply apply thin CA to carbon hole and let it wick into the layers of carbon. After the CA is dry, test fit the bearings into the tail box plate and vertical fin to see if you have a proper press fit.

Topic: Long balls for faster cyclic response!


If you find the cyclic percentages are very high and the roll and tumble rate are still not fast enough, there is an option! Instead of using the short ball(107-106) on the inner swash, try using the long ball(107-108). These are the balls that connect to the pitch links. IMPORTANT!! If you perform this modification, make sure you trim approximately 1mm of threads off the long ball with a file or Dremel Tool. If you do not trim the threads they will bind with the swash ball housing causing the swash to feel very still.

Another option is to try different set of blades. Unfortunately not all FBL blades are created equally and some have their limits to which no matter how high you turn the swash AFR’s the helicopter will not move any faster.



Topic: Correct Belt Tension

1. Check the belt tension under the tail box near the tail bell crank.... not in the front! I don't run the bottom standoff so it is a little easier for me to check the tension. Checking the tension in the front will give you a false sense of tightness, the main pulley and front idlers are too close to get an accurate reading. If checked up front the belt tension will seem extremely tight.

2. With the battery in the helicopter(for weight), use your index finger to pressure on the bottom side of the belt. The weight of the helicopter should deflect the belt about half of the distance until contact with the other side of the belt.

3. Since everyone's batteries are different, a better indicator may be the amount of boom remaining past the last tail box boom clamp(assuming you are exactly flush with the front boom clamp. I've measured this distance and it is 4mm.

4. E7 Belt tension. I don't have an exact measurement on the E7 as my boom is a prototype boom which started as a much longer piece. I can tell you my E7 belt tension has a bit more deflection simply due to the extra belt length.

Topic: Auto Hub Upside Down?

So your auto hub seems to be upside down? No worries! Do not attempt to press the one-way bearing out of the auto hub! Simply flip the hub around and insert the steel sleeve in the other side and you are ready to go.
The auto hub was designed so that it will work right side up or upside down, the main gear will always stay centered. The manual may show the auto hub in a different orientation.

Topic: Canopy Clearance of Main Gear

If your canopy is too close to the main gear, simply use one tail blade spacer on each side to move the canopy mount out further. Do not attempt to heat/distort the canopy, you will discolor the paint and potentially burn it. Canopies will vary slightly so some adaptation may be necessary.

Also, do not put grease on the canopy rubber grommets! You WILL lose the canopy in fast backwards flight. I've used a small amount of silicone spray and then wiped it off with good success.

An after market option that works really well is the RC Booya Quick Release. Yes, they have them specifically for the E7! I am using these on the back only for both of my helicopters and they work very well!

Synergy - *

Topic: Belt drive static discharge and why the E6/7 is immune

First we must understand how the static charge is created. Read all about it at the link below.

Van de Graaff generator - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

The E6/7 is immune to this because the boom is not insulated from the frames by plastic mounting. Essentially static never builds in the tail boom, it discharges immediately through metal pulleys and metal idlers. No ground wires are needed in this design.

IMPORTANT INFORMATION

Right Rudder Travel - DO NOT USE ALL OF IT!!
Do not use all of your right rudder travel. You will stall the tail blades when the gyro is trying to compensate!
Leave a 4mm gap between brass slider and tail box flange bearing. See shitty picture for illustration of correct amount of travel.

maximum_travel_right rudder.jpg

Helical Pinion Height Setup:
On the E6/7 the bottom of the pinion should be in contact with the lower shaft support bearing. If it is not set up this way the helical forces will pull down on the shaft. Setting your helical pinion height correctly and you will not have an issue. Matt designed it to cancel out helical forces.
pinionE6P.JPG
TOPIC: Auto-Hub - Loctite The Bronze Bushings.
When assembling the auto hub, make sure you loctite your bronze bushings into place. These bushings are what keep the inner sleeve centered in the one way clutch. You do not want these bushings floating around!

Ross, Im very keen in getting this and it will be my first venture into the world of Synergy but 1 major thing that is holding me back at the moment is the fact it is a new release and we all know how my venture in to the last new heli (Fusion) went.

Am I gonna have any issues getting a new release Synergy as I have only ever good things about them. I have only seen an N9 once and an N5 once and from what I can remember both appeared to be of a high standard. I have too high standards I think for a hobby like this but this is ticking all the boxes and it is more designed imo (and priced) for the 90 size market which I prefer but I love the fact I can change it to a 50 should I want as I did this at one point with the Logo 600SE.

Just its price is a little on the keen side, its Srimok E territory

Hi Ben,

I can honestly say if this will be your first venture into the world of Synergy then it's a good choice!! Matt is at the top of his game with his designs and will only release a product when he is 100% satisfied with it and this shows right through to production with every part being machined and finished to a very high quality, even down to the kit packaging where the individual side frames are individually wrapped to prevent them from rubbing against each other says alot about the care and attention to detail.

The E6/7 is an awesome machine and from an engineering point of view it's exceptional as the kit comes with all components to build as an E7 (700 Class Machine) or and E6 (600 Class Machine). The price is quite reasonable for the kit quality and content, with all parts been high quality machined and finished Aluminium and Carbon Fibre.

Originally Posted by jamiem

Is there a finalised price and kit contents anywhere?

....parts prices too please if poss.

Originally Posted by jamiem

Is there a finalised price and kit contents anywhere?

I have seen a few guesstimates on price including a reference to the price at Climb-Out at £620 for the kit but i'm not sure if this is set in stone yet.

Originally Posted by sacko

....parts prices too please if poss.

I don't have access to the parts prices at the moment but they should be comparable to the N5C parts as some of them are taken from the N5/N5C. For example the U/c Skids etc/Tail Assembly/ Rotorhead parts. Some rotorhead parts like the grips for example have been modified so they will accept bushings. This is so you can fit bushings for when you are running 600mm blades (4mm Bolts) and also for when you are running 690mm blades as an E7 (5mm Bolts).

I too heard 620 for airframe only and hopefully be here sometime early Oct maybe?

I dont plan on crashing too often and cant imagine parts prices will be any more expensive than what they are for machines I already have

I'm trying to not get tempted but the little devil on my shoulder keeps telling me to Buy! Buy! Buy!

Originally Posted by Jamin_00

I too heard 620 for airframe only and hopefully be here sometime early Oct maybe?

I dont plan on crashing too often and cant imagine parts prices will be any more expensive than what they are for machines I already have

I think thats a fair guess Ben, the only hold up generally is Customs!! With regards to the spares prices, i think the current line of spares are very reasonably priced for their quality and finish and general crash parts like Booms/Spindles/ Tail pushrods are packaged in doubles so prices should work out even more reasonable.

Originally Posted by SynergyMAN

I'm trying to not get tempted but the little devil on my shoulder keeps telling me to Buy! Buy! Buy!

Listen to that little devil on your shoulder Dave!!.. He knows what he's talking about!

As long as they are priced alongside the N5 and not the N9, as £30 for a main gear put me off then.

Just so you guys know the spares are now available:

Check online at: Fast Lad Performance

Another little tip.

The front canopy mounts are a complete PITA like they are on the Avant.

Get some QUK Trex 700E magnetic ones. Take the set that are for the rear, machine 3mm off the stem and they are perfect. I have just done this and they locate perfect everytime I push the canopy on the rear mounts

Scrap that

RC Booya Synergy E6/E7 Quick Release Canopy Mounts | Midland Helicopters Ltd

That's good info Rossco!