Thread: How to make my trex 450 more docile

Best way to make is more docile is to add some expo .. Say 23-27% and add some dual rates in as well say 60-70% and then try

Pitch range 11-11 , as for throttle curves its just a case of finding the right one for you setup as theres too many variables to actually put something down in the throttle curves

I meant keep the pitch range as is mechanically and change it in the radio to say -2,4 upto +11 ... I should have been a little clearer

Better to set everything up mechanically then dumb it down in the Tx as its easier to just change everything later on when you progress

You could add flybar weights and dial the swash mix down...

Set swash mix at 50 but you might not want too much expo or it may feel too slow. The bigger flybar paddles also make it VERY stable in hover.

There's a post by Boggy on calming down the Blade 400. Same principles. The main thing you have to do is to know what the heli is going to do before it does it. This takes practice. Just spooling up and spooling down is good to get used to the noise. Then take off and land using the training undercarraige. Use small movements. Make sure it is properly trimmed. Lots of negative is difficult to handle to begin with. I would go for 0 until you can avoid cutting the throttle when things start to go wrong. Try not to land tail first.

Changing the pitch curve from -11 to +11 to something more like -4 to +8 will make it more docile as well. No need for such a wide pitch range as a beginner. Assuming your pitch settings are 0 - 100% with the blades flat at 50%, try changing them to 30 - 70% as a straight line pitch curve. Should make it a bit more docile

Originally Posted by murph

Changing the pitch curve from -11 to +11 to something more like -4 to +8 will make it more docile as well. No need for such a wide pitch range as a beginner. Assuming your pitch settings are 0 - 100% with the blades flat at 50%, try changing them to 30 - 70% as a straight line pitch curve. Should make it a bit more docile

Totally agree and maybe 20% expo.

Hey.

I'd suggest to use a combination of your dual rates and exponential on the cyclis's to soften them up around centre stick and it will also limit the amount of available control throw at the extreme's of travel. However, doing so via your dual rates will not then mean going back through the setup when you are more comfortable and want some mroe movement, as you can just increase you dual rate values to suit.

With your pitch curve, I'd limit the bottom pitch value to -2~4 degree's of pitch for now (you could even go to -1~-2 only for a beginner), but I would leave the top end at +11 (or whatever you've set). Then adjust your 3/4 stick pitch position to a lower value than 75%, go down to 68% as this will put a shallow bow in the pitch curve making the pitch change just over centre stick less aggressive, but still allowing full pitch range if needed. This will be shown on the DX6i screen.

While it's not good having a full pitch range for a beginner, as one you are taught not to be aggressive with pitch changes and if you don't get used to controlling the collective pitch precisely now (by limiting the overall range available to you via the transmitter) then you will only have to re-learn fine collective control when you return the pitch range to a more normal -11 ~ 0 ~ +11 setup.

If the model is flybarred, then adding weight to the flybar can help with the cyclic feel, by numbing it down. Also this weight can be moved inwards progressively as you get mroe accustomed to flying the model and so returning a snappier feel.
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As coolice suggested, weight on the flybar.

You can get wheel collets for fixed wing models that you can thread onto the flybar to slow down the cyclic response. Alternatively, I highly recommend the MSH/ Protos/ Gorilla programmable paddles: GORILLA PADDLES (BLACK) | Midland Helicopters Ltd