Rave ENV and Vbar, Swashplate/Control modifications from stock required?

**StreetDragster** · 08-09-2011, 04:57 PM

Hi All, another ENV question, sorry!

I've read from various sources that modifications are required to the stock ENV setup if you intend to use a Vbar for control.

Generally it would appears that-

1) Change the inner swash balls, the ones that go up to the blade grips, for 4mm stand off balls.

2) Select a servo horn with 10mm centre to ball spacing and space the t arms balls to match

3) Change the t-arm to swash ball link to the inner hole rather than the outer hole

Is this correct? Is this how everyone with Vbar has their machine setup?

I'll be on 140 degrees CCPM if it matters

Thanks

Matt

**Mark_T** · 08-09-2011, 05:06 PM

Small point, but is it worth using 140 with a VBar?

I seem to recall some suggestions that 140 was marginally better with a flybar but once flybarless 120 was the preferred solution.

**StreetDragster** · 08-09-2011, 06:38 PM

Not sure actually, i was always under the impression that 140 degrees was the preferred setup to 120 degrees due to less swash inter actions. So now that i finally have a heli (Rave ENV) and a transmitter (Dsx11) capable of supporting 140 degree CCPM i was going to utilise it, but this was all based on a flybarred machine.

So, i've asked on the Vbar support forum if the Vbar is designed around a particular version and which i'm 'best' off using, and i'll go with their recommendation

Thanks

Matt

**Bluegarry1** · 08-09-2011, 07:59 PM

These recommendations are also required when using a BeastX FBL unit too. And they work !!

Garry

**StreetDragster** · 08-09-2011, 08:02 PM

Cheers everyone, i will setup accordingly

Do you adjust the t arms for the 10mm servo wheels by drilling and remounting the balls. Or do you leave them at the default spacing on the t-arms and just not have parallel push pull pushrods?

Any chance of a picture?

Thanks

Matt

**StreetDragster** · 10-09-2011, 05:38 PM

Anyone?

Do you adjust the t arms for the 10mm servo wheels by drilling and remounting the balls. Or do you leave them at the default spacing on the t-arms (Approx 14mm) and just not have parallel push pull pushrods?

Thanks

Matt

**KnifeEdge** · 10-09-2011, 08:49 PM

Hi matt. I used quick uk metal wheels at 10.5. 120 ccpm and inner holes on bell cranks.

Worked perfect.

**StreetDragster** · 10-09-2011, 09:39 PM

Cheers

Decided in the end that i'd drill the t-arms to keep the arms pushrods parallel and servo travel linear at the 10.5mm centre to ball distance

Can't wait to get it in the air!

Thanks

Matt

**StreetDragster** · 11-09-2011, 09:31 AM

...... which incidently didn't work, as when i have come to do the elevator t-arm this morning there is no meat to mount the balls at 10.5mm spacing without using standoff balls, which i haven't got.

So, back to stock t-handle spacing

Matt

**squareben** · 18-09-2011, 07:59 PM

Probably for the best anyway Matt because if you change the servo wheel diameter and also change the T-arm to match you haven't achieved any control throw reduction, which is the point of this isn't it?

**KnifeEdge** · 18-09-2011, 08:12 PM

Originally Posted by StreetDragster

...... which incidently didn't work, as when i have come to do the elevator t-arm this morning there is no meat to mount the balls at 10.5mm spacing without using standoff balls, which i haven't got.

So, back to stock t-handle spacing

Matt

Just keep them standard and set the ball on your servo at 10.5mm.