Hi

It is quite a pain to wire - biggest tip would be do not braid the wires.

I remember having a similar issue with the motor - if I remember correctly I just forced it in (took a while).

I gave away the reg and am using a life 2100mah battery. You will get about. 4 flights in one charge. I've heard others just plug a. 2s liposuction direct and get more flights and that the align servos can handle the high voltage.

I use ec5s they are great - the series connector is called a wiring harness - type in harness onto fast lad and one will come up .

I'm working on my build thread now! Should be up in the morning

MY NEW BUILD - Heliguy.com

Above link is for a good build thread.

Deciding on how to wire is always tricky and always nice to see pictures of how others have done it.

EC5 are great btw!

OK, my thread is going to take ages. But I have attached a few pics below which should hopefully help.

With regards to wiring, I highly recommend getting the bulk of the wiring inside the frame before assembling it fully. Doing it this way skips through the manual a but, but it's much better to work on. Do all of this before assembling the tail section, again, for ease of working on it.

My first wiring attempt worked out ok, but the wires came too close to the main gear for my liking and there was no real way of keeping it away from it. Incidentaly, my friends 600 Pro went in the ground a few weeks ago due to this very reason.

As you can see, it drops quite close to the main gear with the wiring in this configuration. There was the elevator, aileron and pitch servos all being routed through this way, one or two wires may have been ok, or possibly all if not braided, but I don't leave any wiring exposed as I've been caught out before! If you are going to braid, I recommend no larger than 4mm braid. This keeps the braid tight to the wires and doesn't make it look 'saggy'.
DSC01166.jpg

Here is a picture with the side frame off so you can see how it was routed. Apologies for the pictures, there's not much light in here to get a good picture with.

DSC01159.jpgDSC01170.jpg

Another note on the braiding. The top one shows a 6mm braid and the bottom servo has been built with the prefered 3mm braid. As you can see, the bottom one looks tighhter and neater. I used 6mm originally, but it looked terrible. Much happier with the results now.
DSC01176.jpg

DSC01179.jpgDSC01180.jpgDSC01181.jpgDSC01182.jpgDSC01184.jpgDSC01185.jpgDSC01187.jpgDSC01188.jpgDSC01189.jpgDSC01178.jpg

The pictures above show the new wire routing. Instead of going across the bottom of the pitch servo, I have added servo extensions and gone round towards the back and taken the route of the tail servo. This puts it along the area where the battery slides into the frame. By using heatshrink instead of the traditional servo extension locks it saves a little bit of space as they can be quite bulky. The other pictures show how everything is tied down. Obviously by using servo extensions there is a little excess wiring, but with proper routing and a bit of time you can get the wires to sit quite nicely inside the frame. I suggest doing this with the tail boom gearbox attached to the heli on one side, this allows you to get in all in place properly without having to remove anything to get it back in place.

Another tip is to drill the tail servo mounts on the opposite side where the screws will go if you used the other side. This means that you can use a standard hex tool to get the tail servo in and out. There's not much room to work on it otherwise and will result in stripped heads on the screws. I feel a ball ended hex tool is too small at 1.5mm and will probably break. So that's why I did it this way. The pictures show that you can get in there no problem with a standard Align tool. Although i had to extend mine out a little to get it to reach. A good mod and essential I feel as Align seemed to have overlooked the fact that they are asking you to put the tail servo in place AFTER you have put the frame together. I do not recommend doing it this way, just for ease. Get the servos in place as best you can first, then put the other frame on.


DSC01171.jpgDSC01172.jpgDSC01173.jpgDSC01174.jpg

Just a few more pictures of how I finished up on my wiring. It still looks a little untidy on the BEC side, but it's getting there.

The first 3 pictures show how it was all placed when I first did it. I originally had the 2S lipo on the top, but it was rubbing on the canopy and wearing through the plastic wrapping, which is obviously not good as it will cause a fire it it goes all the way. Also, the canopy was a nightmare to fit this way, so it's better to have it in the side if you can, or use a smaller lipo like the Align 1900mah which is a great fit for the top. I moved the ESC back to the top, the Lipo in the right side and the CC BEC Pro and S-Bus Rx in the other side. Obviously BeastX on the top. You can see how I routed the Bx wires through once they were secured to the frames. It is very important that they are kept fairly tight to the frames etc to avoid them coming too close the the motor as they go into the BeastX unit. Also, with regards to the ESC and wiring the lipos, I wired my EC5s straight to the ESC to cut out the series cable. Keeps things neater and less wiring going on. You can also see how I have placed my lipo warning alarms. Depending on how you decide to use your lipos, this might not be suitable for you. I had all my lipo wires coming through the bottom instead of the sides. I didn't like the fact that the frames were so close to the wires, and could potentially cut through them causing a short. There's plenty of space underneath to route your lipo wires and they don't rub on anything.

DSC00775.jpgDSC00776.jpgDSC00777.jpgDSC01193.jpgDSC01195.jpgDSC01197.jpgDSC01198.jpg

Also, notice how I used slightly different coloured heat shrink for the servos? If you can, do this. I had 2 types of red which was handy, and i used black for the other cyclic servo. This just helps you keep track of which wire is which as it goes through the frame. Also helps when it comes to plugging them in to the appropriate plug on the FBL unit. You know for sure that you've plugged the right one in to the right spot. Just helps

The rest of the build is pretty straight forward to be honest. Just make sure you pull everything apart that Align have put together and ensure its thread locked. When it comes to head geo setup, don't worry too much about the mixing arms being level like in other builds. It's not essential to have them at 90degrees.

Just noticed your question about the motor. The way i did it was to remove 2 screws from the bearing block and tilt it to the right angle so the motor shaft can be insterted, then tilt it back up as one unit and re-secure the bearing block in place. This is with the electronics mount removed too. You can see from the pictures how I routed the motor wires through too.

DSC00749.jpgDSC00750.jpgDSC00754.jpg

Here are a couple of pics of mine. I have just finished it and am about to go out for a test flight. The servo wires need a bit more of a tidy up once I know it all works. I may get another satellite receiver and do away with the rx and use the 3gx. I am happy using the Align bec for now.

Cheers Dani!! thanks for taking the time to do that, Going to build a little more tonight

Is this the series lead i need for the 12s setup on the 600? EFLAEC507 EC5 Battery Series Harness 10Awg Wire, what connector goes on the lipo end male or female? while im on,I need a rx pack or life pack or other which one? im on fast lad now just totting a couple of bits up I need, is there anything else? Im running off either the 3gx or selling that and getting a ar7200bx, i already have two sats so that will work with either fbl system.

anything else I need?

Glad you're keeping this buddy

That's the cable you need. But If you want to save a bit of wiring, you can solder your EC5s directly to the ends of the ESC. Meaning you don't need that cable, and you can never lose it

See post #9 on this thread here for how to wire your ESC. I'll take some better pictures of mine so you can see it in one piece.

Your lipos want to have 'Male' plastic parts and 'Female' Bullets. I prefer to use a 2S lipo. I use a CC BEC Pro on mine, but the Align one in the kit is ok. Although most prefer to upgrade. I know many people use the 3GX, but I am a Beast X fan. The AR7200BX is a great bit of kit!

With the Ar7200bx you set it up and it flies perfect - no adjustment needed. On my 450 my 3GX is terrible and males it bad to fly

I'd wire a 2s lipo straight into the beastx unregulated, although I'm using a life pack

Will the Beast X take that kind of voltage ok?

I'm pretty sure it takes the voltage (2s lipo), just not sure if you'd want to put that voltage through the servos, even though they are capable of handling it.

If I didn't already have a life pack I would have got the optipower 2s 2000and-something mah lipo - you can just plug it straight into the beastx.

Ok, so thought id do a little more tonight, the tail assembly, I cant seem to get the bolts out ?! they are stuck solid like they are well loctited in, surely this isnt align loctiting kits?. There is play in the grips, about 1mm so is the bolts not budging normal with this kit and is it ok with the play?