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  • Static Tracking

    Recently I have had to help people with machines that despite being perfectly balanced, no bent shafts, tracking spot on… simply shook.

    After lots of head scratching and double checking of everything, trying different blades, dampers, etc.. it dawned on me that perhaps the static tracking was out.

    Static what? Some of you be thinking..

    I first came across this on the original XCell 60 series of helicopters in the early 90’s. They had a couple of grub screws in the base of the head block that tightened against the main shaft. The purpose of these was to allow you to adjust the static tracking of the blades.

    Static tracking the blades is much like normal tracking.. however you do it without the head spinning.

    Simply measure the height of one blade tip and the rotate the blades through 180 degrees and see where the other blade tip is. I do this by extending the aerial of my transmitter so it just brushes the bottom of one blade tip. Ideally they should be under ½ cm in difference. However these machines I mentioned earlier were suffering from blade tips that were several cm’s out.

    Adjustment on these machines was pretty straight forward as they had 2 piece head blocks. A quick slackening and re-tightening of them allowed us to shift them enough to bring the static alignment into an acceptable region.

    If your machine has a one piece head block and has recently been “pranged” then there is a good chance that this might be ever so slightly out. Maybe not enough to visibly wobble.. but that amplified at the end of the blade tip it can be quite visible.

    Mark

  • #2
    So in effect the head block is no longer square to the main shaft giving the same results as a bent main shaft?

    So with a one piece alloy head block showing static tracking problems, how would you correct it? I assume this would be very difficult to do.

    With a one piece plastic head block would you be able to use heat to try to bend the head back into alignment?

    Thanks for all your great info on Set up i am looking forward to the next installments.

    Cheers

    Ben
    Now I know what Orvill the duck was on about!!!!
    Heli Fleet So Far:
    Lama V3 (out grown now)
    Titanium Shogun 400 Heavily Modded (First proper Heli love to bits)(donated by extremely generous friend!)
    Soon to be Hurricane 550 WooHoo!!!! (very excited!!)(Also donated by same extremely generous friend!!)
    DX7 TX + AR6200+AR6100
    Reflex Sim (not used enough)

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    • #3
      Hi Ben,

      With the one piece head blocks you are a bit stuffed. You certainly don't want to be heating the plastic up.

      A lot of the one piece blocks have pinch bolts as well as the jesus bolts. Therefore the first thing to try would be to slacken these off, move the block, then retighten. You could even try rotating the block round by 180 degrees.

      Cheers

      Mark.

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      • #4
        I read your post and didn't think anything of it, then I realised occasionally I can't get the tracking right on the TREX 450 V2. What I have inadvertantly done is undo the pich bolt and retighten it and the problems have gone away until the next time.

        Thanks for taking the time to explain this
        Slow Mo Blade 550x

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        • #5
          Hi Richie,

          Glad it was of some use. I had never come across it until I had my Xcell 60. Even then it wasn't mentioned in the instructions and it was only when Dave Wilshire mentioned it that I investigated it.

          The Xcell 60 had two holes at the bottom of the block specifically to put two grub screws in to adjust the block.. however it was never mentioned in the manual.

          Since then most machines I've had (JR/Hirobo) have had two part blocks with the damper yoke separate from the piece that bolts to the main shaft. This means you have to pay a bit more attention to the heads.

          Either way.. its a small nugget of information that will hopefully be of use to some people

          Cheers

          Mark

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