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Thread: TDR goes in HARD!

  1. #91
    Registered Member jonesheli's Avatar
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    Perhaps Ben will sell his?!!
    George

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  3. #92
    Super Moderator Jamin_00's Avatar
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    No chance dude lol.

    Total cost now just from Henseleit is €425

    Not replaced the cano, blades and packs yet.
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  4. #93
    Super Moderator Jamin_00's Avatar
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    Just added the the frames braces from Henseleit along with new Futaba HV servos and the heat resistant main gear.

    I have everything here except the torque tube so can't do much more as its already to go back together.
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    Registered Member muscleflex's Avatar
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    should have bought a srimok?!
    Aug '11 - Finally done it! Spektrum DX8!!!

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  7. #95
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    Hmm speed gear was supposed to be black? I see you've run into a problem of aftermarket frame braces not being compatible with Jan's. I opted out of using 3rd party ones due to this problem, I think Jan's are enough, no new marks on the can since I started using them (I fly light tho)
    Michal


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    Super Moderator Jamin_00's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AcidDrink View Post
    Hmm speed gear was supposed to be black? I see you've run into a problem of aftermarket frame braces not being compatible with Jan's. I opted out of using 3rd party ones due to this problem, I think Jan's are enough, no new marks on the can since I started using them (I fly light tho)
    I too thought the gear was black but apparently not? http://www.henseleit-helicopters.de/...oducts_id=1314

    Yes but with just the top ones in it is solid and I could not get it to move so will leave it like it is for now.

    1 quick question. How much backlash would you recommend on the motor??
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jamin_00 View Post
    I too thought the gear was black but apparently not? hitzebeständiges Zwischenwellenzahnrad, Henseleit Helicopters

    Yes but with just the top ones in it is solid and I could not get it to move so will leave it like it is for now.

    1 quick question. How much backlash would you recommend on the motor??
    Probably Jan is saving manufacturing costs and adds less dye to his regular-soon-to-be-special gear pot
    With this new gear, I simply don't know, Jan says it can be tighter than regular gear "click-clack sound" backlash, you need to ask people with more experience than me (or ask the man himself)
    Last edited by AcidDrink; 12-07-2012 at 08:09 PM.
    Michal


  10. #98
    Site Sponsor Rctintin's Avatar
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    Ben, I am running a special hand made main gear, and even when running with the 4525LE that is hand wound, I have left the mesh as per the instructions. IE, more than you would normally think!! It needs to be able to gently rock between the teeth making a little noise as it rocks.

    I am experimenting with a new gear grease as well. Its a dry one that goes on as a liquid, and then the solvents evaporate, leaving a nice film of 'smoothness' on the gears. This is it...

    Halfords | Muc-Off Dry Lube Bike Lubricant

    So far so good.

    Regards the Jan frame brace, the alloy one you have was made by a guy called AussyMick, and I acted as his European distributer. They are designed to sit on the back of the motor mount, thus boxing in the motor and keeping it all very square. Some have managed to fit Jans plates as well, but they need a nick machining out of one of the washers. My mate has just one of those on his frames, but I think mine feels more rigid with the alloy brace, and simply cannot move out of square.
    ROB

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    I need to try this lube, I use tri flow synthetic something, which is all right, but needs cleaning as it attracts dirt a bit.
    Michal


  13. #100
    Site Sponsor Rctintin's Avatar
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    Yeah, I have been using Futaba white grease, and Traxxus white lithium greese, both 'fling' and leave a mess on my spotless heli!!

    So far, I have been getting on well with this new stuff.
    ROB

    SAB Goblin 700 V-Bar
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    T-Rex 700 LE FBL V-Bar
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    Cellpro 10xp & 2x PL8's & GRANT PSU Phoenix Sim & Simstick
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  16. #101
    Super Moderator Jamin_00's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rctintin View Post
    Ben, I am running a special hand made main gear, and even when running with the 4525LE that is hand wound, I have left the mesh as per the instructions. IE, more than you would normally think!! It needs to be able to gently rock between the teeth making a little noise as it rocks.

    I am experimenting with a new gear grease as well. Its a dry one that goes on as a liquid, and then the solvents evaporate, leaving a nice film of 'smoothness' on the gears. This is it...

    Halfords | Muc-Off Dry Lube Bike Lubricant

    So far so good.

    Regards the Jan frame brace, the alloy one you have was made by a guy called AussyMick, and I acted as his European distributer. They are designed to sit on the back of the motor mount, thus boxing in the motor and keeping it all very square. Some have managed to fit Jans plates as well, but they need a nick machining out of one of the washers. My mate has just one of those on his frames, but I think mine feels more rigid with the alloy brace, and simply cannot move out of square.
    Oddly enough tonight I noticed a slight clicking that was related to mesh. As I continuously turned the head aout every turn and a bit it would click. Checked everything and the only time it went was when I meshed a little closer still giving me what I would describe as a fine mesh. A little rock back and forth while holding the motor still. When I increased the mesh the click was worse but yet I could see nothing that would cause this????

    Confused but at least its gone.

    As for grease I like the futaba white servo grease as applied lightly is very good and does not splatter. I don't know what Rob used but it had built up on the insides of the frames. Thought I was taking a nitro apart lol

    Or, I have had an Opti cleaning kit for ages (got it from Fast lads I think so thats how long lol) and the Optilube leaves a nice film so might give that a try too
    Last edited by Jamin_00; 12-07-2012 at 10:44 PM.
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  17. #102
    Site Sponsor Rctintin's Avatar
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    If the click stays, check the front TT bearing. The bottom fixing nut of the front boom support must not be over tightened as it can crush that front bearing. Also a tip in the manual this is easily overlooked is to put a small wrap of coloured tape at the very beginning of the boom where it exits the rear boom support. This will show if your boom starts to move out. Mine did about 1mm, so loosened the TT front gear mesh.

    When you install your new boom, before you use the thin double sided tape to hold the tail pitch rod guide in place, fit your canopy, and mark the boom where the canopy touches. This is the centre of the guide positioning, thus the canopy sits on it, and not on the boom scratching it. (I know know Rob put it in the wrong place!!)
    ROB

    SAB Goblin 700 V-Bar
    Henseleit TDR V-Bar
    T-Rex 700 LE FBL V-Bar
    Synergy N5c FBL V-Bar
    T-Rex 550 E FBL V-Bar
    Blade MSR, mCPx & 130x
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  18. #103
    Super Moderator Jamin_00's Avatar
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    lol cheers but at this point the boom is not attached to the heli.

    It was coming from the drive gears somewhere but like I said, soon as I closed the mesh it went. Maybe its to do with this new HR gear??
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  19. #104
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    Very sorry to see that matey. The TDR is a dream heli to us mere Align fliers so I feel your pain.

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