Gyros Explained
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Thread: Gyros Explained

  1. #1
    RC Model Flyer Steve has a brilliant future Steve has a brilliant future Steve has a brilliant future Steve has a brilliant future Steve has a brilliant future Steve has a brilliant future Steve has a brilliant future Steve has a brilliant future Steve has a brilliant future Steve has a brilliant future Steve has a brilliant future Steve's Avatar
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    Default Gyros Explained

    If you are new to this website and looking for info on how gyros work, then please take the time to read my own personal 'take' on these clever little (and almost essential) devices.

    This document has been updated a few times over the years with the latest version posted here on 25th October 2011.

    Constructive critisisms welcomed.

    Attachment 32653

    Last edited by Steve; 26-10-2011 at 12:17 AM. Reason: New version uploaded.

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  3. #2
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    A good, useful document, but not all solid state gyros are HH. There are still plenty of rate gyros out there that are solid state, but not HH.

    You obviously know a thing or two about gyros since mine is now working great...

    Cheers - Rob
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  4. #3
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    Good words - Thanks for that. It cleared up one item for me straight away - the fact that the gain is not a % as it tops out at 140. Now I knw my gyro gain (in %) is not as high as I thought

    Thanks!
    Cheers, Lee.
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    Nice job,,,
    Chris

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    Spot on, and a very useful document, even to me and I have been messing with different Gyro's for a couple of years now and thought I had it sussed.......(even printed a copy to chuck in with all the manuals )

    Ask Stuart if he can make this a sticky in the Gyro / Beginners forum?
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  7. #6
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    Thanks for the comments chaps.

    I'll do some more work on it when I get a chance, and add some diagrams to make things clearer. Don't forget to let me know if any of it is wrong. It's all based on MY understanding of gyros, which of course might be misguided.


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  8. #7
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    The part about wagging (Gain section, page 4) might be better clarified by saying that a fast wag (side to side rather than backwards and forwards...) is indicative of too high gain and a slow wag is usually down to gain too low.

    As I know you have a Vibe, it's worth mentioning that Curtis suggests offsetting the servo horn one click (spline) forwards (towards the nose) on the rudder servo... interesting eh!

    Cheers,
    Rob

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by robgt View Post
    Curtis suggests offsetting the servo horn one click (spline) forwards (towards the nose) on the rudder servo... interesting eh!

    Cheers,
    Rob
    Rob

    Is it always one click forward on all helis? I mean, if the tail blades are on the other side of the boom from the Vibe (i.e. a Millennium off the top of my head), is it the same forwards offset, or is it one click backwards?

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  10. #9
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    I think this is just on the Vibe - I have never seen it or done it myself on any other heli... it does work though

    Cheers,
    Rob

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by robgt View Post
    I think this is just on the Vibe - I have never seen it or done it myself on any other heli... it does work though

    Cheers,
    Rob
    Yes, the Vibe has a bell-crank at the back of the frames so surely a similar affect could be produced by moving the output one spline towards the back of the heli on a conventional boom mounted servo - i.e. the bell crank reverses everything the tail servo does. And, I'm still not sure if it's the same way around when the heli is handed the other way around?

    I'm just updating the file a bit - will post a new version up in a minute.

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  12. #11
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    Ammended version is now uploaded - use the same link that's in my original post to get it.

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  13. #12
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    Yes, the Vibe has a bell-crank at the back of the frames
    Hmm... so does the Trex 600n...

    I'm not entirely sure why the notch forward to be honest - I have a feeling it's simply to do with the clearance of the push rod from the main gears?

    Cheers,
    Rob

  14. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by robgt View Post
    Hmm... so does the Trex 600n...

    I'm not entirely sure why the notch forward to be honest - I have a feeling it's simply to do with the clearance of the push rod from the main gears?

    Cheers,
    Rob
    Easy answer to that one Rob.

    Put the tail servo where the throttle servo should be. Then put the throttle servo in the space next to (just in front of) the new tail servo position. You'll have to make up a new throttle linkage, but everything else fits, and the first stage of the tail push rod is now no way near the main gear.

    That's how I've done mine - if you want, I'll get a photo.

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  15. #14
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    Thank's Manager. great info for newb explanes a lot that seemed a mistery.

    Cheers Sid
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  16. #15
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    I see what you're saying - but my rudder linkage doesn't get that close to the main gear anyway, with the rudder servo mounted in the intended location. This is why my slight confusion on the issue...

    Cheers,
    Rob

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