Thread: Beast X and 600

Can anyone tell me why when going fbl you need to reduce the control ball distance on the servo horns.

Any tips for setup with the 600 will be appreciated.

Originally Posted by waveydavey

Can anyone tell me why when going fbl you need to reduce the control ball distance on the servo horns.

Any tips for setup with the 600 will be appreciated.

The ratios of servo movement to grip movement are narkedly changed without the leverage change that happens with a flybar and it's cage/mixer arms.

I was trying to find definitive texts on the ideal ratios for all this the oter day ..buit the best i found was a suggestion of 1.6:1 grip arm distance to swash grip distance..nothing really good to explain the full movement rates.

Align's new servo wheels have a second set of inner holes for their 3G system.. but I'm planning on using a bunch of spare futaba star wheels on my 600N rjx/beastx conversion.. same spline as the DS610/620 series

Its to improve resolution. That said I didn't bother, and my microbeasted 600 fly's great.

>> I was trying to find definitive texts on the ideal ratios for all this the oter day

Interesting question. But it's not that simple, because we are interested in both collective and cyclic response. For collective, only the blade grip length matters, but not the ball distance on the swashplate.

For me, the definitive guide is Mikado's online calculation tool.

Getting the lengths right is the single most important decision, when it's about performance.
The heli will fly in any case. But if the servos are overloaded by a bad geometry, it will wobble in abrupt moves.
On a 600, it's not nearly as important as on a 700, if you're using comparable servos.

On my 600N with the Beast i had to bring the servo balls in further than Aligns servo wheels allow for the 3g,they are simply too far out on that distance.

I used Mikados tool and the Beast also needs second hole on a star Futaba horn,if you dont do this you wont get the blue led to say the geometry is OK when doing the cyclic and pitch setup with the Beast and it just wont work as well as it could if mechanically setup as optimum.

The Logos are spot on as far as mechanics go for fbl,the 600N and 700N are not.

..getting forgetful.. I'd forgotten the mikad tools..was lookign at them only 6 weeks ago and went right out of my head when I went hunting again 3 days ago...

..must be why i keep missing my alzheimers awareness meetings...

The second hole on the Futaba horn is ideal for the beast as it is with V bar.When i tried it with the 3g horns i could not get the required cyclic pitch settings and turn the LED blue as there was too much travel.

I tried a 600N with V bar using Align 3g horns and it was shocking compared to bringing the balls in and resetting.

Originally Posted by ChrisB

The second hole on the Futaba horn is ideal for the beast as it is with V bar.When i tried it with the 3g horns i could not get the required cyclic pitch settings and turn the LED blue as there was too much travel.

I tried a 600N with V bar using Align 3g horns and it was shocking compared to bringing the balls in and resetting.

Is the 2nd hole the outer or inner hole?

Eckchaz,its the second hole from the inner 21mm hole to hole(10mm from centre)

Steve

I am not sure on the 700E,does that not have a second inner hole on the bellcranks.Maybe with that and the inner hole on the Align horn the geometry is OK.

The problem as i have read it is that the 600 and 700n bellcranks are something like a 2 to 1 ratio which gives excessive cyclic movement for fbl.

There is quite a lot of info on this over on the Freak in the various fbl sections.

When i tried to set V bars on the 600N and 700N using Align 3g wheels i had far too much cyclic availability,likewise when setting up the beast x on my 600N where you aim for 6 deg cyclic and ideally get the LED to go from red to blue showing good geometry i was getting 9degrees before the LED went Blue,when i reduced the balls in on the horns to 10mm from centre i was getting 6 degrees just after the LED went Blue.

This is the relevent text from the Beast setup manual.Step J


.........

Now move the aileron stick as long until the rotor blades must have exact 6 degrees of cyclic pitch. The further you move the aileron stick the quicker the servo will steer to the given direction. If you moved the swashplate too far you can steer the stick to the opposite direction and reduce the pitch. Also by moving the tail stick to one direction you can delete the adjustment and bring the swashplate back to 0 degrees.
When reached 6 degress the status LED should glow in blue colour now. This indicates that your helicopter‘s rotor head geometry is perfect for the use with a flybarless system. Otherwise if the status LED‘s colour is red or purple or the status LED is off this indicates that your helicopter‘s geometry is not optimal for flybarless usage.
Correct this by using shorter servo horns, shorter linkage balls at the swashplate or longer blade grip link levers.
Always set the cyclic pitch to 6 degrees! This function does not affect the maximum rotation rate of the helicopter but serves to advise the MICROBEAST the apposed ranges. A wrong adjustment at this step will deteriorate the correct function of the MICROBEAST.

Thanks Chris, Sorry for my questions but when you refer to futaba horns, are you refering to these Fast Lad Performance or these Fast Lad Performance or shall I just drill holes that are 10mm from the centre of my existing Align horns.. Sorry again

The first ones the black plastic Futaba horn B are the ones i use on my 600 and 700N or you could drill holes closer in on any circular horn.

Steve

On your 700E i would firstly try using the setup options Align have given so try the inner holes on both as you would for the 3g.

Originally Posted by ChrisB

The first ones the black plastic Futaba horn B are the ones i use on my 600 and 700N or you could drill holes closer in on any circular horn.

Where does the calculation/science come from. I've bought the Align servo horns and it sounds like I'd be better off drilling my own and get the geometry correct.

Originally Posted by fishface

Thanks Chris

There was me thinking buy a box of clever electronics, wire it up, a few minutes to set up and away you go - silly me!!

Cheers

Steve

Yeah, me an all. Thanks Chris